What better time of the month to have wines with bubbles than the month of December where many celebrate Thanksgiving, Christmas, Boxing Day and the countdown to the New Year. The history of sparkling wines go all the way back to the Champagne region of France, as early as the fifth century, when the Romans planted vines in the Northeast of France. It was not until the late 17th century, the Champagne craze started to take off. At that time, Champenois vignerons were trying to get rid of the bubbles in their wine. They failed to understand that the bubbles were caused by residual yeast that started re-fermentation in the bottle, thus, releasing carbon dioxide into the wine and causing bottles to explode violently. At the same time, the British started to fall in love with wines that had bubbles. It was very much enjoyed among the rich and noble class, leading to a whole new market of wines to be created. Vignerons were now deliberately trying to have their wines sparkle instead of remaining still.
As you pop open a bottle of sparkling wines, here are a few sparkling wine facts to pique the interest of your friends whom you share the bubbles with.
Fact #1
Champagnes are from France and sparkling wines from Australia are called sparkling wines.
There is sometimes a tendency for people to ask for Champagne when what they really are asking for is sparkling wine. What is the difference? None except for the differences in price. Champagnes are a lot more expensive than most Australian sparkling wines. The EU has a labelling agreement with other countries that they cannot label their sparkling wines as champagne unless it originates from Champagne in France. There are basic wine production laws in the Champagne region when it comes to the production such as a minimum aging period of 1.5 years for the secondary fermentation, which is the fermentation that produces the bubbles in the still wine. This time of 1.5 years is believed to be the minimum time taken for Champagne to develop its flavours. Unlike sparkling wines in Australia, the law requires Champagne to use primarily Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay grapes for production of the still wine. In Australia, we see a range of sparkling wines made from other grapes such as Muscat and even Shiraz.
Fact #2
There is no country in the world that is as well known as Australia for making Sparkling Shiraz.
This has now lead to a National sparkling red day in Australia to celebrate an truly unique Australian wine style first made by French winemaker, Edmund Mazure in Adelaide in 1982.Today, we have winemakers such as Peter Rumball who makes some of Australia's most excellent sparkling reds using the same techniques as the French Champagne Houses.Flavours of Sparkling Shiraz are reminiscent of sarsaparilla, jam, blackcurrant with chocolate nuances.
Fact #3
Drinking a glass of sparkling wine gets you drunk faster than still wine.
A study has confirmed that the fizz speeds up the absorption rate of alcohol into the
bloodstream. Drinking two glasses of sparkling wine could make you go over the drink
driving limit.
Fact #4
The amount of pressure in a sparkling wine made by méthode champenoise, also called the traditional method, whereby the bubbles are created in each bottle through a secondary fermentation, is calculated to be between four to six atmospheric pressure, which is the pressure you can find from the tires of a double-decker bus.
This is also why sparkling wine bottles are heavier than still wine bottles because stronger bottles are needed to withstand the pressure inside. They also come with the punt so that the structural integrity of the bottle is increased and the pressure in the bottle is distributed more evenly. The punt has another purpose which is to provide a way for champagne or sparkling wine producers to perform riddling, which is a process of twisting the bottle slightly on its sides so that the sediments in the bottle will slide closer from the bottom of the bottle to the
neck for removal. With such huge amount of pressure in there, this makes the cork fly out of the bottle at up from 60 to 160 km per hour. Watch where you are pointing!
Fact #5
Sparkling wines are best served between 6 to 8 degree Celsius.
If it is a high-quality sparkling wine, a vintage champagne or a sparkling red, it is better to serve it from 9 to 12 degrees so that the matured and complex aromas are able to escape from the glass more easily. When drinking sparkling wines, it is better to use a flute or th champagne glass than a normal glass. This is because the surface area is reduced so that the bubbles can be retained much longer and dissipate quickly. Drinkers should hold the stem of the glass if they want their bubbly to not warm up too fast.
Fact #6
Bubbles are formed due to the rough parts of the glass.
The process of bubble formation is called nucleation and the rough parts are nucleation sites. In some champagne flutes, you can find a small indent at the bottom of the some champagne glasses to allow the formation of bubbles and observe its journey from the base of the glass all the way to the top. A little bit of dust sticking onto the sides of the glass acts as a nucleus for bubble formation. When you clean your glass too well or worse, leave a layer of detergent in your glass, you are interfering with the bubble formation process!
Fact #7
According to a study in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, pouring sparkling wine down the side of a glass in the same way you do with beer reduces the loss of bubbles and flavour by half compared to pouring it straight down to the bottom of the glass at 5 degrees Celsius.
At room temperatures, it does not matter which way you pour it in as both methods will still make the sparkling wine become flat quickly. Thus, the lower the temperature of the sparkling wine served, the less bubbles will be loss during the pouring process.
Below are some recommended wines for the season:
Pizzini 13.5%, Brochetto 2009, King Valley, Australia $22.95
A wine with pale onion skin colour and a slight fizz to it. Refreshing aromas of raspberries and strawberries with hints of soapy characters and litchee. It is sweet, crisp, and finishes with flavours of berries.
Lahfrte frères 12%, NV, Champagne, France $59.95
A pale green tinge with a steady stream of bubbles. Aromas of green apples, pears, freshly baked bread and dough. The palate is also doughy with good acid structure and green apple flavours. Beautiful biscuity finish. Best served at 10 degree Celsius.
Château de Beauregard 12.5%, Chenin Blanc & Chardonnay NV, Saumur, France $34.95
A light-coloured wine with aromas of nuts, kumquats, and dough. Good acid, dry and finishes with a nutty back palate. Best served very chilled and taken with something sweet.
All wines are purchasable at The Oak Barrel, 152 Elizabeth Street, Sydney 2000
This article is written for the Sydney Online Street Press and is repoduced on this website. It is available at the http://www.thesydneyonlinestreetpress.com/Culture.html.
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Beechworth - The unsung hero Day 7 18/12/2010
Another region that is one of the best experiences that I have in Victoria as a region that produces some very excellent wines. It is very rare that you come across a region where all the wineries you hit makes some fantastic stuff that is unseen in the Asian market. Beechworth is not the place you want to go if you are here to drink as many wines as you can and get drunk. This is a place of sophistication and can only be entered with a purpose - to understand how fine wines are made and the philosophy of the vignerons in this region. It is an exciting place and I think it always has been if people paid more attention to it. I do admit that the wineries are not readily accessible and most of them require appointments. However, if you are able to get one, don't waste your bloody time going there to drink. Use it to ask lots of questions and make sure they are smart ones too otherwise I can assure you, your host will keep looking at his watch. I wish I had the chance to go to see Barry at Sorrenberg and also Savatarre but I suppose there is always a reason to come back.
Castagna*
Think about coming here for a drink? Forget it. Julian, the owner and winemaker, is a winemaker with lots of heart when it comes to winemaking. Passion is not something that is hard to come by with this former film maker. Although he has no winemaking degree, his wines are beautiful and nothing interest Julian more than to make wines that are pure and reflects terrior. He believes Bio-dynamic farming brings out the purest in his wines of the land. Julian sees himself as a helper of the vineyard rather than a winemaker.
His vineyard is very closely planted (1.5m x 0.75m) on granitic loam. The vineyard is on N-S orientation, with fruit from 12 acres (9 acres are owned). The elevation on his site is 500m above sea level and the rainfall is 700mm. 90% of the rainfall happens in winter. However, 3 years ago, it only rained 50mm for the whole year. Julian is one of the first to believe that the region does a good Shiraz and also started planting sangiovese. He also uses something which he calls tree paste (made from Diatomaceous earth, 500 and lime) to clean up the old wood on the vines. Julian cuts off any bunches which he thinks are loose. Temperatures in Beechworth during the summer are around mid 30s and there was once a week of 40. He thinks that 2011 is an unusual year just like 1989. 2002 was a classic year. In 2000, 2003 and 2007, he made no crus at all. 2009 was his 10th vintage.
The more I talked to Julian, the more I found his views very enlightening. Although opinionated, he has what I would consider rational reasons to back it up. We tasted some of the wines that he had in the tank and both the 2009 Genesis Syrah (retails at $75) and Segretto Sangiovese/Syrah ($75) were coming along very well, considering the product is not finished yet. His Genesis was exceptionally floral and complex, with a very long length. Delicious as well was his Adam's rid Nebiolo/Syrah 2009 (still in tank) which was full of roses and floral fruit. It's palate was rich, with a long and beautiful back palate which was delicate.
Julian was generous to open a bottle of 2008 La Chiave Sangiovese ($75) which was fermented wild at 30 degrees and aged in new Bossuet barrels. The clones used at the Brunello clones. It is probably the best Sangiovese which I have tasted in Australia, with medium ruby red colours and floral aromas of roses and beetroot. It was a gorgeous nose. The wine was beautifully balanced with silky tannins and a very long finish. It really had an european taste to it.
Julian believes that we must be open to what a wine taste like and not what science dictates; that we should focus on the good qualities of a wine and not find faults all the time. Julian is a winemaker who relies on his guts and instince and imagination to make things work. In making judgement on the quality of his wines, he thinks of the emotional reaction that he gets when the wine goes into his mouth. He isn't technical or scientific but he relies little on science to make his decisions. He does no tests on his wines except for pH. Julian feels that he can't make wine in a big winery as he doesn't have scientific experience and he is doing things that a re contradictory to what is being taught in wine schools, however, that does not stop him from making brilliant wines. After tasting his wines, I cannot disagree with him on his wines being of very good quality.
Giaconda*
What can I say about Giaconda except that Rick Kinzbrunner is a humble but yet, creative genius as a winemaker. I have never seen anyone plant their vineyard in such a manner before. When I asked him why he planted them as a semi circle, his response was because it was good to look at. The vine spacing is 1 x 3m but if he could do it all over again, he would have done 0.7-0.9 x 2.5 m spacings. It is interesting to see his Shiraz vineyard being only 8 years old cropping at 2.5 tonnes/acre and on decomposed granite, making some really fine wine. As shown to me, The top layer is granite which is up to 1m and the subsoil is clay. Rick has a liking for using wood for all his ferments since 1989 and dislikes any use of metal. In terms of preference, it is wood, concrete than steel for fermentation vessels. The ferments are wild with no MLF bacteria added. All wines are bottled by gravity and no filtration. While fining happens for the whites, bentonite is used but nothing such as heat or cold stability is used. This is one of those vineyards that I do not notice any downy at all.
We went done to the wine cave which is 60m deep and believe me, it was a sight to see.
It was the first time I seen a winery that uses lees stirring done by rotation of the barrel. We tasted the 2010 Chardonnay from the barrel and it was simply divine. It had a sort of lemon myrtle and honey aromas that was distinct from other Chardonnays and on its palate, it was rich, buttery, with lots of MLF character(it has gone through full MLF). Rick uses a special custom made barrel called Chardonnay Cuvee from Sirugue. It is different in that it uses a progressive toast (meaning toasting from one end of the staves to the other from light to heavy. The heads are not toasted and Allier and Vosges are used to make the barrels. The 2010 Pinot Noir was also very fragrant, with aromas of roses and burgundian style, seamless connecting with the flavours in the palate. The stricture of the PN was firm and clean. Rick took half of the PN fruit from the yarra which contributes the clean berry flavours and the other half from beechworth which was bigger and earthier. We tasted some Shiraz from the barrels that are being made in collaboration with Chapoutier and one from a med plus toast Troncias barrel. The 2010 Shiraz from that barrel was dominated with coffee and black tea aromas and on the palate, it was roasted nuts, charry but with a robust structure.
I think what I really look forward to is the bottling of the 2008 Nebbiolo which is Gianconda's first vintage. In my opinion, that is the best Nebbiolo I have smelt and tasted in Australia even though the product is still in the barrel. It's colour was brick red with an orange rim. On the nose was cedar, perfume, red fruit and roses. The tannins were high which is what you would expect from Nebbiolo but the flavours were just bursting in the mouth with lots of ripe fruits, spices, tar and a good long finish. Acid in there was just integrated.
Pennyweight*
Stephen Morris is the winemaker of this winery with family connections to the Morris family winery up in Rutherglen. He is bio-dynamic and is a very big fan of Sherry wines. If you want to know more about sherries and its production, I really recommend you guys to pay Stephen a visit who is really passionate in explaining more about sherries and the flor connection. I enjoyed smelling different barrels of sherry in his barrel room and looking at the tight layer of flor. Sherry is an acquired taste but once you taste a good one, especially when it's chilled, there is no going back. I love that acetaldehyde character as well as that slight funkiness that goes with it.
Golden Ball*
James McLaurin and his lovely wife, Janine runs Golden Ball. This is one of those wineries that I feel deserves more attention and I really recommend that people who are into wines with high density in concentration should go pay Golden Ball a visit. James intends to go biodynamic soon. He has also planted half an acre of Savignan in 2009 and half an acre of Petit Verdot in 2010. The soils on his vineyard are deep decomposed granite and light clay. No insecticides are used and only copper, sulphur, milk and oil are used as foliage sprays. James also handpicks his grapes and like to employ a 48 hour cold soak at 10 degrees before wild ferment and wild MLF. He usually likes to have 19 months of oak ageing and a minimum of five months in the bottle to rest.
I do enjoy his wines as they go very well with meaty food. His merlots are something I would like to follow closely as he crops prety low. It was a real pleasure tasting all his wines from the barrel and understanding more about his winemaking philosophy. I found all his wines from the barrel not only ripe and juicy, I also admire what he is doing in experimenting with each parcel that goes in different types of barrels. James was also using the same methods as Giaconda concerning the stirring of lees (The wheels are what James call Rim Rigs). The first plantings of 4.5 acres were in 1996 and the first vintage was in 2002. James uses Bossuet, Serugue and Meyrieux barrels for his Shiraz and Merlots. He also shoot thins to prevent the bunches from producing bigger berries and bunch thinning on veraison. He finds that when he drops 30-40% of the fruit, the fruit ripens better and builds the flavour. If the fruit is dropped too early, the fruit becomes too big as most of the nutrients will go into the berries to expand the size.
Below are some notes concerning the wines tasted from the barrels. I consider them to be more for my own personal reference and that nobody should use this to try and predict what the finish product would be.
1year old barrels 2010 Chardonnay, all med plus toast.
Sirugue, troncias: Nose of popcorn, butterscotch. Palate of lees, creamy, med acid, lots of caramel
Sirugue, Allier: Nose of light caramel, leesy, more fruit. Palate od med plus acid, light lees and more fruit in the back
Sirugue, Châtillon: Nose of butter, cedar, perfume. Palate of med plus acid, lees, longer cedary finish
François Frères, new oak and not 1 yr old: Nose of vanilla and Saffron, Palate of fruit, med acid, pencil lead, med plus length.
Merlot from the barrel, Bossuet for 9 months, 100% new
Med minus toast: light coffee and toast in the backpalate, full tannin structure
Med toast: less perceptible tannin for some strange reason being that the barrels are toasted more, dryer in the back palate
St Martin but picked 6 days later, Troncias: Sweet berry and oak nose and dry on the palate
Cab Sauv 2010
Bossuet 2nd use: very fragrant, blackberry, lots of power on the nose. The palate is delicate, light toast and lots of packed flavours
Bossuet 100% new: fragrant and lots of cedar with good ripeness on the nose. The palate is toasty and redcurrants
St Matin, older 2nd use: Nose if fruitier with backcurrant. Palate of ripe berry and good fruit structure.
James was very generous in allowing me to taste a few bottles of the finished product. My comments are below.
The Gallice, 55% Cab, 40% Merlot, 5% Malbec 2005 14% AUD65
This is their flagship wine. It is deep black in colour and the nose is earth, blackberry with light floral aromas and pencil shavings. On the palate, it is structured, with high tannins, vanilla from the oak and a long red berry finish.
Merlot 2008 14%, AUD55: deep purple fade to crimson in appearance. On the nose, light vanilla, slight mintiness, good ripe blackberry, complex cigar and smoke, dark choco, a dense nose. On the palate, fruit intensity on the initial palate balanced by smoke and cedary characters, heavyweight density for a merlot, unlike the softer style, med plus tannin, but powdery in texture, spicy edge to it, not green on the finish, more like a herbaceous edge as you would expect from merlot, very long length, herb and spearmint in the backpalate
Shiraz 2008, 14.4%: deep purple fade to purple in appearance. A barossa nose that is dense and cedary with cinnamon, sweet spice and coffee, chocolate. On the palate has flavours of coffee ground, with a light soy.
Castagna*
Think about coming here for a drink? Forget it. Julian, the owner and winemaker, is a winemaker with lots of heart when it comes to winemaking. Passion is not something that is hard to come by with this former film maker. Although he has no winemaking degree, his wines are beautiful and nothing interest Julian more than to make wines that are pure and reflects terrior. He believes Bio-dynamic farming brings out the purest in his wines of the land. Julian sees himself as a helper of the vineyard rather than a winemaker.
His vineyard is very closely planted (1.5m x 0.75m) on granitic loam. The vineyard is on N-S orientation, with fruit from 12 acres (9 acres are owned). The elevation on his site is 500m above sea level and the rainfall is 700mm. 90% of the rainfall happens in winter. However, 3 years ago, it only rained 50mm for the whole year. Julian is one of the first to believe that the region does a good Shiraz and also started planting sangiovese. He also uses something which he calls tree paste (made from Diatomaceous earth, 500 and lime) to clean up the old wood on the vines. Julian cuts off any bunches which he thinks are loose. Temperatures in Beechworth during the summer are around mid 30s and there was once a week of 40. He thinks that 2011 is an unusual year just like 1989. 2002 was a classic year. In 2000, 2003 and 2007, he made no crus at all. 2009 was his 10th vintage.
The more I talked to Julian, the more I found his views very enlightening. Although opinionated, he has what I would consider rational reasons to back it up. We tasted some of the wines that he had in the tank and both the 2009 Genesis Syrah (retails at $75) and Segretto Sangiovese/Syrah ($75) were coming along very well, considering the product is not finished yet. His Genesis was exceptionally floral and complex, with a very long length. Delicious as well was his Adam's rid Nebiolo/Syrah 2009 (still in tank) which was full of roses and floral fruit. It's palate was rich, with a long and beautiful back palate which was delicate.
Julian was generous to open a bottle of 2008 La Chiave Sangiovese ($75) which was fermented wild at 30 degrees and aged in new Bossuet barrels. The clones used at the Brunello clones. It is probably the best Sangiovese which I have tasted in Australia, with medium ruby red colours and floral aromas of roses and beetroot. It was a gorgeous nose. The wine was beautifully balanced with silky tannins and a very long finish. It really had an european taste to it.
Julian believes that we must be open to what a wine taste like and not what science dictates; that we should focus on the good qualities of a wine and not find faults all the time. Julian is a winemaker who relies on his guts and instince and imagination to make things work. In making judgement on the quality of his wines, he thinks of the emotional reaction that he gets when the wine goes into his mouth. He isn't technical or scientific but he relies little on science to make his decisions. He does no tests on his wines except for pH. Julian feels that he can't make wine in a big winery as he doesn't have scientific experience and he is doing things that a re contradictory to what is being taught in wine schools, however, that does not stop him from making brilliant wines. After tasting his wines, I cannot disagree with him on his wines being of very good quality.
Giaconda*
What can I say about Giaconda except that Rick Kinzbrunner is a humble but yet, creative genius as a winemaker. I have never seen anyone plant their vineyard in such a manner before. When I asked him why he planted them as a semi circle, his response was because it was good to look at. The vine spacing is 1 x 3m but if he could do it all over again, he would have done 0.7-0.9 x 2.5 m spacings. It is interesting to see his Shiraz vineyard being only 8 years old cropping at 2.5 tonnes/acre and on decomposed granite, making some really fine wine. As shown to me, The top layer is granite which is up to 1m and the subsoil is clay. Rick has a liking for using wood for all his ferments since 1989 and dislikes any use of metal. In terms of preference, it is wood, concrete than steel for fermentation vessels. The ferments are wild with no MLF bacteria added. All wines are bottled by gravity and no filtration. While fining happens for the whites, bentonite is used but nothing such as heat or cold stability is used. This is one of those vineyards that I do not notice any downy at all.
We went done to the wine cave which is 60m deep and believe me, it was a sight to see.
It was the first time I seen a winery that uses lees stirring done by rotation of the barrel. We tasted the 2010 Chardonnay from the barrel and it was simply divine. It had a sort of lemon myrtle and honey aromas that was distinct from other Chardonnays and on its palate, it was rich, buttery, with lots of MLF character(it has gone through full MLF). Rick uses a special custom made barrel called Chardonnay Cuvee from Sirugue. It is different in that it uses a progressive toast (meaning toasting from one end of the staves to the other from light to heavy. The heads are not toasted and Allier and Vosges are used to make the barrels. The 2010 Pinot Noir was also very fragrant, with aromas of roses and burgundian style, seamless connecting with the flavours in the palate. The stricture of the PN was firm and clean. Rick took half of the PN fruit from the yarra which contributes the clean berry flavours and the other half from beechworth which was bigger and earthier. We tasted some Shiraz from the barrels that are being made in collaboration with Chapoutier and one from a med plus toast Troncias barrel. The 2010 Shiraz from that barrel was dominated with coffee and black tea aromas and on the palate, it was roasted nuts, charry but with a robust structure.
I think what I really look forward to is the bottling of the 2008 Nebbiolo which is Gianconda's first vintage. In my opinion, that is the best Nebbiolo I have smelt and tasted in Australia even though the product is still in the barrel. It's colour was brick red with an orange rim. On the nose was cedar, perfume, red fruit and roses. The tannins were high which is what you would expect from Nebbiolo but the flavours were just bursting in the mouth with lots of ripe fruits, spices, tar and a good long finish. Acid in there was just integrated.
Pennyweight*
Stephen Morris is the winemaker of this winery with family connections to the Morris family winery up in Rutherglen. He is bio-dynamic and is a very big fan of Sherry wines. If you want to know more about sherries and its production, I really recommend you guys to pay Stephen a visit who is really passionate in explaining more about sherries and the flor connection. I enjoyed smelling different barrels of sherry in his barrel room and looking at the tight layer of flor. Sherry is an acquired taste but once you taste a good one, especially when it's chilled, there is no going back. I love that acetaldehyde character as well as that slight funkiness that goes with it.
Golden Ball*
James McLaurin and his lovely wife, Janine runs Golden Ball. This is one of those wineries that I feel deserves more attention and I really recommend that people who are into wines with high density in concentration should go pay Golden Ball a visit. James intends to go biodynamic soon. He has also planted half an acre of Savignan in 2009 and half an acre of Petit Verdot in 2010. The soils on his vineyard are deep decomposed granite and light clay. No insecticides are used and only copper, sulphur, milk and oil are used as foliage sprays. James also handpicks his grapes and like to employ a 48 hour cold soak at 10 degrees before wild ferment and wild MLF. He usually likes to have 19 months of oak ageing and a minimum of five months in the bottle to rest.
I do enjoy his wines as they go very well with meaty food. His merlots are something I would like to follow closely as he crops prety low. It was a real pleasure tasting all his wines from the barrel and understanding more about his winemaking philosophy. I found all his wines from the barrel not only ripe and juicy, I also admire what he is doing in experimenting with each parcel that goes in different types of barrels. James was also using the same methods as Giaconda concerning the stirring of lees (The wheels are what James call Rim Rigs). The first plantings of 4.5 acres were in 1996 and the first vintage was in 2002. James uses Bossuet, Serugue and Meyrieux barrels for his Shiraz and Merlots. He also shoot thins to prevent the bunches from producing bigger berries and bunch thinning on veraison. He finds that when he drops 30-40% of the fruit, the fruit ripens better and builds the flavour. If the fruit is dropped too early, the fruit becomes too big as most of the nutrients will go into the berries to expand the size.
Below are some notes concerning the wines tasted from the barrels. I consider them to be more for my own personal reference and that nobody should use this to try and predict what the finish product would be.
1year old barrels 2010 Chardonnay, all med plus toast.
Sirugue, troncias: Nose of popcorn, butterscotch. Palate of lees, creamy, med acid, lots of caramel
Sirugue, Allier: Nose of light caramel, leesy, more fruit. Palate od med plus acid, light lees and more fruit in the back
Sirugue, Châtillon: Nose of butter, cedar, perfume. Palate of med plus acid, lees, longer cedary finish
François Frères, new oak and not 1 yr old: Nose of vanilla and Saffron, Palate of fruit, med acid, pencil lead, med plus length.
Merlot from the barrel, Bossuet for 9 months, 100% new
Med minus toast: light coffee and toast in the backpalate, full tannin structure
Med toast: less perceptible tannin for some strange reason being that the barrels are toasted more, dryer in the back palate
St Martin but picked 6 days later, Troncias: Sweet berry and oak nose and dry on the palate
Cab Sauv 2010
Bossuet 2nd use: very fragrant, blackberry, lots of power on the nose. The palate is delicate, light toast and lots of packed flavours
Bossuet 100% new: fragrant and lots of cedar with good ripeness on the nose. The palate is toasty and redcurrants
St Matin, older 2nd use: Nose if fruitier with backcurrant. Palate of ripe berry and good fruit structure.
James was very generous in allowing me to taste a few bottles of the finished product. My comments are below.
The Gallice, 55% Cab, 40% Merlot, 5% Malbec 2005 14% AUD65
This is their flagship wine. It is deep black in colour and the nose is earth, blackberry with light floral aromas and pencil shavings. On the palate, it is structured, with high tannins, vanilla from the oak and a long red berry finish.
Merlot 2008 14%, AUD55: deep purple fade to crimson in appearance. On the nose, light vanilla, slight mintiness, good ripe blackberry, complex cigar and smoke, dark choco, a dense nose. On the palate, fruit intensity on the initial palate balanced by smoke and cedary characters, heavyweight density for a merlot, unlike the softer style, med plus tannin, but powdery in texture, spicy edge to it, not green on the finish, more like a herbaceous edge as you would expect from merlot, very long length, herb and spearmint in the backpalate
Shiraz 2008, 14.4%: deep purple fade to purple in appearance. A barossa nose that is dense and cedary with cinnamon, sweet spice and coffee, chocolate. On the palate has flavours of coffee ground, with a light soy.
Rutherglen - Land of the Fortifieds Day 6 17/12/2010
This is not only a land of fortifieds, but of big, bold Shiraz & Durif (which does well in hot and dry weather) plus their Sparkling Wine. The people here still do their Sparkling wines remuage by hand. Although the Shiraz alcohol levels can go up to over 16%, they are sturdy and have lots of flavour in them to balance with the alcohol. The shiraz here can also suck in a lot more oak just like those in Heathcote. This area is considered a continental climate. There is a french connection with the people of Rutherglen in that all the winemakers have gone to France to do at least a vintage; at least all the winemakers I have talked to here has gone to the Rhône, which makes sense cause the climate here is very much like the Rhône. The rainfall here is 560mm.
Andersons
Howard runs the winery here along with his family. Everything is done by hand including the bottling. According to him, the brandy spirit they use here is distilled to 80% instead of the Spiritus Vinum Rectificatum (SVR) which is 94-96%. For more on SVR and brandy, check out http://www.monashscientific.com.au/AlcoholDistillationTheory.htm#FractionalDistillation
Jones Winery
Jones is worth stopping by since it is nearby. They make a Shiraz that is not your typical Rutherglen type of boldness. The winery has 16 acres under vine. I find their Apera having fusal oil characters and rancio notes.
Campbells*
This is one of the biggest wineries in Rutherglen. I do recommend people to come here and try their Rieslings, Durif and Tempranillo. For those of you who really want to know what is the difference between a Topaque and a Muscat or it's development, I have included some notes below as a guide. Topaque (or as Tokay as they once called it) is made from Muscadelle.
Topaque
Grand - changes from caramel, fish oil characters when young to toffee, black tea and walnut characters. On the palate, luscious, high acid, layers of walnut, coffee flavours with long length.
Rare - aromas of coffee, toffee, leather and a lingering fish oil smell. On the palate, very developed, leather, light mushroom and flavours of burnt toast.
Muscat
Normal - grapy smell, linear
Classic - light flowers, more spicy, fruit cake caramel, longer length than the Normal.
Grand - Not as much toffee, coffee, more floral. Not as dark in colour as the Topaque Classic. Flavours of christmas pudding, black tea, prunes, liqourice, figs.
Rare - light floral characters, roast, malt. On the palate, syrupy and molasses.
The intensity increases with age as well as the concentration. There is also an increase of burnt aromas.
Stanton & Killeen*
Although Simon Killeen wasn't around, Joe Duncan showed me around and guided me through the tastings. What a great bloke! Nobody should miss going to S&K if they are in the region. These guys make awesome fortifieds! Interestingly, they started using diam corks as early as 1986. I never knew diam was already invented during that time. Below are some personal observations about the wines tasted from S&K. If you don't get it, it probably is written in my own language.
Vintage Port
2005 18.5% $32 Med plus purple in appearance. Nose of light aged characters and cherries, plums, tea, med plus intensity, Palate of med plus acid, very ripe berry, high tannins, chalky texture, good fruit characters, med plus length, a bright fruit finish.
1986 18.5% Brick fade to garnet. Light glue, leather, cloves, slight VA, med intensity on the nose, Palate is leathery, developed characters, med plus acid, light cloves, spicy, long length fading away gently with a light berry lingering finish.
Tawny Port
Ruby 18% avg age 4 years, Durif, Shriaz, Touriga $18
Nose of red currents, black jam, med plus intensity
Palate of med plus acid, jam, red fruit, med plus tannins, slight roughness, med sweet.
Classic 19% 12 years, Shiraz, Touriga $30
Nose of rancio, cedar, wood, med plus intensity
Palate of med minus sweetness, high acid, light leather, fruity characters exist, lots of berries, med plus tannins, smoother on the palate, long length, but light finish
Grand 19% 25 years, Shiraz, Touriga $80
Nose of rancio, wood, earth, developed, light metallic
Palate: Fruit is still in there, earth, walnuts, high acid, med plus tannins, smoother, long length, earthy and rancio finish
Topaque
Normal 17.5% $18
Nose of light fishoil, raisins, med plus i
oily palate, fish oil, light cod liver flavour, med plus acid, med plus length, almond finish
Classic 18% $30
Nose of fishoil, cod liver, med plus i
Palate of cold tea, med plus acid, med plus length
Grand 18.5% $80
Nose of fruitcake, fish oil, toffee
Palate of dried apricots, dried figs, long length, beautiful fig backpalate
What I notice about Topaque is that is evolves from more elegant, not as complex and not as syrupy to dried apricots and fruits, rancio and nuts
Muscat
Rutherglen 17.5% $18
Nose of grape, musk, med plus i, rich
Palate of toffee and molasses, more dominant flavours than Topaque
Classic 18% $30
Nose of vanilla, cedar, cakebread, light rancio, syrupy, thick, raisin
Palate of med plus acid, raisins, rancio, long length
Grand 18.5% $80
Nose of cedar, wood furniture
Palate of med plus acid, raisin, light coffee, syrup, very long length, complex, lingering cherry cake bread, grape
The woodiness in Muscat tends to come out more as it ages.
Pffieffer*
I really loved a lot of the wines made here. Especially interesting here is the Gamay that they make. Paul was a fantastic bloke who walked me through all the wines here. It was also really nice of Jen Pffieffer, the talented winemaker, to come out and chat with me as well as give me a taste of the latest Chardonnay that they were bottling. Picking of the grapes can start in January for the Chardy and May for the Muscat. Wines growing on sandy soil do tend to have problems in producing natural acid, requiring acid adjustment.
Topaque
Rutherglen 17.5%
Nose of fish oil, cod liver, med plus i, cold tea, orange musk
Palate of med plus acid, fish oil, cold tea, apricot, long length, orange zest
Classic 17.5% 10-12 yrs
Nose of light varnish, med plus i, butterscotch
Palate of med plus acid, toast, butterscotch, light toffee, very long length
Grand 17.5%
Nose of toasty, cedar, smoke, leather, rancio, roast
Palate of treacle, musk, toffee, tea, very long length, orange zest, med plus acid, orange peel back palate
Rare 17.5%
Nose of toast, molasses, toffee, leather, developed, rancio, walnut
Palate of toffee, treacle, syrup, med plus acid, not cloying, lots of flavour, dried fruit, prune, very long length,
Muscat
Normal 17.5%
Nose of grape, raisin, floral, soap
Palate of med plus acid, grapy fruit cake, prunes, long length,
Classic 17.5%
Nose of light raisin, cedar, med plus i
Palate of med plus acid, grape, light toffee
Grand 17.5%
Nose of rancio, slight VA, dried fruit but not as heavy as Rare, leather
Palate of toffee, molasses, caramel, dried fruit, rancio, bolder than Topaque, long length, nutty coffee
Rare 17.5%
Nose of raisin, VA, dried fruit, molasses, roast
Palate of high acid, raisin fruit, lots of syrup, coffee, molasses, long length, complex backpalate
Warrabilla Wines
The meaning of Warrabilla means clean water. If you have the time, do drop by to taste their wines. What is interesting is that their reds are high alcohol but still taste in balance because of the concentration of their grapes.
Additional Notes:
Buller wines is also worth paying a visit
Andersons
Howard runs the winery here along with his family. Everything is done by hand including the bottling. According to him, the brandy spirit they use here is distilled to 80% instead of the Spiritus Vinum Rectificatum (SVR) which is 94-96%. For more on SVR and brandy, check out http://www.monashscientific.com.au/AlcoholDistillationTheory.htm#FractionalDistillation
Jones Winery
Jones is worth stopping by since it is nearby. They make a Shiraz that is not your typical Rutherglen type of boldness. The winery has 16 acres under vine. I find their Apera having fusal oil characters and rancio notes.
Campbells*
This is one of the biggest wineries in Rutherglen. I do recommend people to come here and try their Rieslings, Durif and Tempranillo. For those of you who really want to know what is the difference between a Topaque and a Muscat or it's development, I have included some notes below as a guide. Topaque (or as Tokay as they once called it) is made from Muscadelle.
Topaque
Grand - changes from caramel, fish oil characters when young to toffee, black tea and walnut characters. On the palate, luscious, high acid, layers of walnut, coffee flavours with long length.
Rare - aromas of coffee, toffee, leather and a lingering fish oil smell. On the palate, very developed, leather, light mushroom and flavours of burnt toast.
Muscat
Normal - grapy smell, linear
Classic - light flowers, more spicy, fruit cake caramel, longer length than the Normal.
Grand - Not as much toffee, coffee, more floral. Not as dark in colour as the Topaque Classic. Flavours of christmas pudding, black tea, prunes, liqourice, figs.
Rare - light floral characters, roast, malt. On the palate, syrupy and molasses.
The intensity increases with age as well as the concentration. There is also an increase of burnt aromas.
Stanton & Killeen*
Although Simon Killeen wasn't around, Joe Duncan showed me around and guided me through the tastings. What a great bloke! Nobody should miss going to S&K if they are in the region. These guys make awesome fortifieds! Interestingly, they started using diam corks as early as 1986. I never knew diam was already invented during that time. Below are some personal observations about the wines tasted from S&K. If you don't get it, it probably is written in my own language.
Vintage Port
2005 18.5% $32 Med plus purple in appearance. Nose of light aged characters and cherries, plums, tea, med plus intensity, Palate of med plus acid, very ripe berry, high tannins, chalky texture, good fruit characters, med plus length, a bright fruit finish.
1986 18.5% Brick fade to garnet. Light glue, leather, cloves, slight VA, med intensity on the nose, Palate is leathery, developed characters, med plus acid, light cloves, spicy, long length fading away gently with a light berry lingering finish.
Tawny Port
Ruby 18% avg age 4 years, Durif, Shriaz, Touriga $18
Nose of red currents, black jam, med plus intensity
Palate of med plus acid, jam, red fruit, med plus tannins, slight roughness, med sweet.
Classic 19% 12 years, Shiraz, Touriga $30
Nose of rancio, cedar, wood, med plus intensity
Palate of med minus sweetness, high acid, light leather, fruity characters exist, lots of berries, med plus tannins, smoother on the palate, long length, but light finish
Grand 19% 25 years, Shiraz, Touriga $80
Nose of rancio, wood, earth, developed, light metallic
Palate: Fruit is still in there, earth, walnuts, high acid, med plus tannins, smoother, long length, earthy and rancio finish
Topaque
Normal 17.5% $18
Nose of light fishoil, raisins, med plus i
oily palate, fish oil, light cod liver flavour, med plus acid, med plus length, almond finish
Classic 18% $30
Nose of fishoil, cod liver, med plus i
Palate of cold tea, med plus acid, med plus length
Grand 18.5% $80
Nose of fruitcake, fish oil, toffee
Palate of dried apricots, dried figs, long length, beautiful fig backpalate
What I notice about Topaque is that is evolves from more elegant, not as complex and not as syrupy to dried apricots and fruits, rancio and nuts
Muscat
Rutherglen 17.5% $18
Nose of grape, musk, med plus i, rich
Palate of toffee and molasses, more dominant flavours than Topaque
Classic 18% $30
Nose of vanilla, cedar, cakebread, light rancio, syrupy, thick, raisin
Palate of med plus acid, raisins, rancio, long length
Grand 18.5% $80
Nose of cedar, wood furniture
Palate of med plus acid, raisin, light coffee, syrup, very long length, complex, lingering cherry cake bread, grape
The woodiness in Muscat tends to come out more as it ages.
Pffieffer*
I really loved a lot of the wines made here. Especially interesting here is the Gamay that they make. Paul was a fantastic bloke who walked me through all the wines here. It was also really nice of Jen Pffieffer, the talented winemaker, to come out and chat with me as well as give me a taste of the latest Chardonnay that they were bottling. Picking of the grapes can start in January for the Chardy and May for the Muscat. Wines growing on sandy soil do tend to have problems in producing natural acid, requiring acid adjustment.
Topaque
Rutherglen 17.5%
Nose of fish oil, cod liver, med plus i, cold tea, orange musk
Palate of med plus acid, fish oil, cold tea, apricot, long length, orange zest
Classic 17.5% 10-12 yrs
Nose of light varnish, med plus i, butterscotch
Palate of med plus acid, toast, butterscotch, light toffee, very long length
Grand 17.5%
Nose of toasty, cedar, smoke, leather, rancio, roast
Palate of treacle, musk, toffee, tea, very long length, orange zest, med plus acid, orange peel back palate
Rare 17.5%
Nose of toast, molasses, toffee, leather, developed, rancio, walnut
Palate of toffee, treacle, syrup, med plus acid, not cloying, lots of flavour, dried fruit, prune, very long length,
Muscat
Normal 17.5%
Nose of grape, raisin, floral, soap
Palate of med plus acid, grapy fruit cake, prunes, long length,
Classic 17.5%
Nose of light raisin, cedar, med plus i
Palate of med plus acid, grape, light toffee
Grand 17.5%
Nose of rancio, slight VA, dried fruit but not as heavy as Rare, leather
Palate of toffee, molasses, caramel, dried fruit, rancio, bolder than Topaque, long length, nutty coffee
Rare 17.5%
Nose of raisin, VA, dried fruit, molasses, roast
Palate of high acid, raisin fruit, lots of syrup, coffee, molasses, long length, complex backpalate
Warrabilla Wines
The meaning of Warrabilla means clean water. If you have the time, do drop by to taste their wines. What is interesting is that their reds are high alcohol but still taste in balance because of the concentration of their grapes.
Additional Notes:
Buller wines is also worth paying a visit
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Quea!y Wines - the next frontier of PinotG
As you already know form reading about my time in Mornington, it has been a joy being at Quea!y wines to taste thier PinotG (Grigio or Gris but from now on, I call it just G). To me, PinotG has always been a simple wine to me and I have tasted very few PinotG that interest me. The ones that do are Boreham Wood from Marlborough (Awatere valle), Rockburn from Central Otago and Logan from Orange. However to me, Quea!y is taking PinotG of the new world to another dimension that I am going to benchmark PinotG against. As I have written, go to http://www.pinotg.com.au/
What I think is the success of Quea!y's PinotG is that the winemakers understands this grape so well that they know when to pick it at the right physiological ripeness and let the grapes do most of the talking instead of the winemaking.
I tasted two wines from them. Below are my thoughts:
Pinot Grigio 2009 13.5%
Pale green in colour, a wine with light aromatic and perfume characters, nashi pears and melony notes, also a sort of white pepper spice to it. On the palate, it didn't taste like a grigio style to me with the lean and electric feeling. It still has high acid but balances out with the flavous and has a sort of spiciness that you can find with Gewurtz, hints of spear mint is in that. The length is very long and flavours linger in the mouth
Pinot Gris, Musk Creek 2009 14.3%
Pale yellow in colour. A far cry from the last wine. A sweeter nose in there and higher density of weight on the nose, much riper fruit with hints of mentholy pear dorp, poached pears and light honey characters. On the palate that slight oily texture shows and has a fuller body than the last wine. The acid is not as hight but enough to get the tongue watering. Flavours of fruit and almond. A very long length again and has a good line of finish that is not abrupt. Not phenolic like some cheap PinotG are in the back. A winner!
What I think is the success of Quea!y's PinotG is that the winemakers understands this grape so well that they know when to pick it at the right physiological ripeness and let the grapes do most of the talking instead of the winemaking.
I tasted two wines from them. Below are my thoughts:
Pinot Grigio 2009 13.5%
Pale green in colour, a wine with light aromatic and perfume characters, nashi pears and melony notes, also a sort of white pepper spice to it. On the palate, it didn't taste like a grigio style to me with the lean and electric feeling. It still has high acid but balances out with the flavous and has a sort of spiciness that you can find with Gewurtz, hints of spear mint is in that. The length is very long and flavours linger in the mouth
Pinot Gris, Musk Creek 2009 14.3%
Pale yellow in colour. A far cry from the last wine. A sweeter nose in there and higher density of weight on the nose, much riper fruit with hints of mentholy pear dorp, poached pears and light honey characters. On the palate that slight oily texture shows and has a fuller body than the last wine. The acid is not as hight but enough to get the tongue watering. Flavours of fruit and almond. A very long length again and has a good line of finish that is not abrupt. Not phenolic like some cheap PinotG are in the back. A winner!
Heathcote, Strathbogie & Nagambie Day 5 16/12/10
Woke up today feeling kind of tired from yesterday. It was enjoyable but visiting 5 wineries in a day and walking the ground does a number on you. I'm going to take it easy today. Then again, I got a lot of driving to do since I am going from Heathcote to the Strathbogie and then to Rutherglen.
Downing Estate
Tahbilk*
I am so thankful to Neil Larson for waiting on me for 30 minutes as I have to drive from PF to get here. Going to Tahbilk was another eye-opener for me as well. The Estate itself was historic and a heritage site. To walk through thier wine cave was like the whole Champagne/Burgundy experience and to see barrels as old as over a 100 years got me very excited. Ozone generators O^3 are being installed to get rid of micro organisms in the cellar. In terms of cleaning the tartaric crystals from the hogshead (300l), they use soda ash (sodium carbonate).
The Goulburn valley region is a temperate climate and frosty. It is like the Pathdaway region with 620mm of rainfall. Maximum summer temperatures can reach up to 40 degrees and zero at night.
An interesting piece of history is how in 1930s, Tahbilk actually started with putting varietals on labels.
Neil was generous to open both the Eric Stevens Pubrick Shiraz 2005 and Cabernet 2005 for me to try.
Shiraz 2005 14.5% A deep purple with reddish hues. Nose of cedary furniture, vanilla and fruit. On the palate is full of ripeness, wonderful acid structure, and a long length
Cab Sauv 2005 14.5% A deep purple with nose of lead, soy, liqourice. On the palate is leathery, lead, and a long chocolaty length.
I would say that both wines were quality and the price is justifiable.
Additional Notes:
Drop by Mitchelton Wines if you have the time. They have a range of stuff to taste to tell you more about what Nagambie can produce. This are the same guys that make Preece.
Downing Estate
Bob Downing runs this winery as well as juggling the responsibilities of being the Chairman of the Heathcote wine Association. His wines did very well in le concours des vins this year. Being a small estate, they only produce 1000 cases per year and has 10 ha under vines. His plantings are 1.3m x 3m. However recent plantings are now with 2 m spacings which require less pruning and the same crop levels. This puts less disease pressure, less struggle from lack of water and more lighting. Cropping levels are 1.5-2 tonnes/acre. Bob does cane prunning as the vines are better regulated and there is a more consistent water supply compared to spur as well as fruit. Also, Bob thinks that with cambrian soil, the roots tend to go down deeper but with yellow clay, it is dry and there is water struggle. It was a joy to walk through his vineyad and taste his wines.
All his wines are priced at $39. Tasting notes are below.
Shiraz 2006 14.5% Deep black with aromas of vanilla, caramel, blackcurrant. Flavours of blackberry and coffee, long length and delicate finish
Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 15% Deep black with musy aomas, pencil shavings and menthol. Flavours of blackberry and chalk tannins.
Merlot 2006 14% Deep black with aromas of rust, cedar, light oak. Flavours of blackberry, robust and a long length.
Plunkett-Fowles*
Sam Plunkett is a person who is passionate about the Strathbogie ranges and he has every reason to. As the chief winemaker of PF, he is doing a mighty fine job in managing so many different batches of wine. His winery is one of the most state-of-art I have come across so far and also has the most levels (at least 4 stories high). He is making amazing Rieslings and Shiraz from this region and also one of the most perfumy I have come across. We tasted the Shiraz from the tanks and although it was not a finish product, it was already showing such clean, perfume characters with lots of purity. Moreover, his 2008 Ladies who shoot thier lunches Shiraz is the winner of the 2010 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge!The climate is elevated, cool and very windy. It is considered continental. PF owns 500 acres and is on mostly exposed granite that is 4 million years old. The vineyards in the north of the great divide has less clouds while the south having more. The rainfall in this region is 700mm/year and can go up to 1700mm. MJT is 20 degrees and can run over 40 degrees during certain day. PF produces 50000 cases and crush 23000 tonnes a year. To Sam, the sun in Australia is different from Europe and cloud covers affect the night and day temperatures. The termperatures cool down fast as there are no clouds and the land is 510 m above sea level. There are lots of undulating hills in these region and those that face north are warmer and produce the better fruits.
Tahbilk*
I am so thankful to Neil Larson for waiting on me for 30 minutes as I have to drive from PF to get here. Going to Tahbilk was another eye-opener for me as well. The Estate itself was historic and a heritage site. To walk through thier wine cave was like the whole Champagne/Burgundy experience and to see barrels as old as over a 100 years got me very excited. Ozone generators O^3 are being installed to get rid of micro organisms in the cellar. In terms of cleaning the tartaric crystals from the hogshead (300l), they use soda ash (sodium carbonate).
The Goulburn valley region is a temperate climate and frosty. It is like the Pathdaway region with 620mm of rainfall. Maximum summer temperatures can reach up to 40 degrees and zero at night.
An interesting piece of history is how in 1930s, Tahbilk actually started with putting varietals on labels.
Neil was generous to open both the Eric Stevens Pubrick Shiraz 2005 and Cabernet 2005 for me to try.
Shiraz 2005 14.5% A deep purple with reddish hues. Nose of cedary furniture, vanilla and fruit. On the palate is full of ripeness, wonderful acid structure, and a long length
Cab Sauv 2005 14.5% A deep purple with nose of lead, soy, liqourice. On the palate is leathery, lead, and a long chocolaty length.
I would say that both wines were quality and the price is justifiable.
Additional Notes:
Drop by Mitchelton Wines if you have the time. They have a range of stuff to taste to tell you more about what Nagambie can produce. This are the same guys that make Preece.
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Heathcote Day 4 - Australia's unrated Shiraz Region 15/12/10
The Heathcote is one of my favourite regions in VIC. This year, rainfall has gone up to 1m and in August, it is usually 600mm. The annual rainfall is about 575mm in winter/spring and little or no rain in December. Heathcote is a continental climate with low humidity. With a Heat summation of 1420 degree days, it is considered cool/warm. MJT temperatures can be 25 degrees and can get up to a maximum of 47 degrees. However, this tempered down by wind that comes from the valley in the North-South direction. Veraison happens in late Jan and harvest starts at the end of March and beginning of April. The special thing about Heathcote is the cambrian soil which is rich in iron. The cambrian soil is caused by two faultlines that runs in a narrow strip from North to South. Another part of Heathcote called the Camal Range is one to two degrees hotter is of another soil type. The Cambrian soil produces rich and juicy ripe characters. Frost can happen in the region unless the vineyard is on a slope.
Sanguine Estate*
This is definitely a winery to visit in Heathcote. Mark Hunter is the winemaker and co-owner of this family-owned vineyard. Although he has no winemaking degree, he has gained first-hand experience from doing vintages with other winemakers. The winery set-up is very impressive and what you would expect from someone who makes wines of excellent quality. Mark describes himself as a winemaker who draws his influences from both the old and new world. Although he is not certified organic, he used methods which are organic. The vineyard is 20 ha and is with cambrian soil as well as a clay base and full of rocks. This produces fruit with tannic structure and full of berries. In a warm year, the soil looks after the vines much better and holds on to the moisture; the roots also go deeper. All his wines are fermented by wild yeast and grapes are dusted with sulphur before picking so that the grapes won't start fermenting under the hot sun. This also prevents the grape juice from oxidising and losing flavour. This is different from some vignerons who add sulphur after picking the grapes. When I asked Mark if he ever had to add yeast nutrients, he said that 2008 was the only year he had to do it as nutrient levels in the grapes were out of whack.
Mark uses whole berry ferments most of the years and whole bunches in some years. The winery itself is quite high-tech for producer that makes about 3000 cases a year(He only makes 3-4 barrels of Chardy per year). He uses his 3-tonne fermenters with pnuematic plunges. It is difficult to hand plunge 3-tonne fermenters unless it is 2 instead. To chill the must, he runs a brine solution on the sides of the tank and can maintain temperatures of up 8 degrees. In terms of reductive characters, he doesn't get much of that even with lots of lees so he doesn't have to use copper. To overcome reduction, he racks the fermenting must using gravity and this is possible with the design of his fermenters. When it comes to acid adjustment, Mark is very careful and nervous about it.
I asked Ron if he adds any acid to his wines. He responded that he bought a bag of tartaric acid in 1982 and still has not used it. Everything is done by wild yeast and he conducts a 6 week post-maceration as he believes this produces better tannin structure to the wine. According to Ron, the first part of the fermentation is aerobic where the yeast cells need oxygen to grow but the last part of the ferment is anaerobic when it is in the tank. The long post-fermentation allows tannins in the skin and pips to polymerize better when in contact with the alcohol. He also racks according to the calender.
To Ron, minimal intervention is the buzzword and it is all about putting as little work into the winemaking as possible to get the maximum results. Ron uses stuff in the vineyard to keep his vines healthy like milk powder spray where he puts it on the leaves so that lactic bacteria sticks on the leave and grows on it. This prevents
other organisms from getting in and also causes natural MLF. He hasn't used copper on his vines for more than 15 years. Ron is convinced that 500 is highly concentrated in micro life forms and flora. The cow shit in horn transforms to sweet compost with high content of micro flora and organisms. It is kept in a dark spot where it is cool, dark and moist where micro organisms can thrive and then stirred with water at the right temperature so as not to shock the micro organisms and to infuse the water with oxygen that is conducive for soil health.
Speaking to Ron was enlightening. He explained to me the concept of a forest being closed system where the leaves fall and die, and are digested back into the soil and organisms are living in harmony with each other. However, his vineyard is not a closed system as wine is being produced from the land and is being sold. Terrior is lost. It is a closed system if the wine is being poured back into the soil. The terrior has the tendency to reflect the type of fertilisers used e.g those with potassium. The thing about BD is that it makes the organism at bed rock work to make more snails and give building blocks for flowers and colour. The soil is believed to be alive and the everything that comes from the soil is used to make the 500 and fed back into it. A vineyard with harmony and balance is more resistant to stress. When mosses and lichens are seen in the soil, it is a sign that the soil is becoming dead. Ron feels that weed killers are for lazy farmers and that so farmers destroy their soil health by using glycol to get rid of grass. To him, weeds are grass that you don't want and he usually has no problem with grass growing in his vineyard. He doesn't worry about birds as well as he thinks that birds are part of the vineyard ecology and many birds eating up grapes in the vineyard is a sign of a system that is not balanced.
In 1987, there was a bushfire and they had to cut the grass short to prevent the vineyards from getting burned. Occasionally, the alternate rows are being ploughed to aerate the soil. Other concepts like minimal cultivation (planting legumes) keep the place alive and healthy. The first vines were widely planted (12 by 6ft) as it is not irrigated and water stress is prevented. The soil can only offer so much and thus, the more vines per ha, the less yield per vine. When it comes to picking, Ron realises that in the last 2 years, the sugar are ahead of the flavours. However, he picks on ripe tannins and flavours, not on sugars.
We also tasted the 2009 Georgia's Paddock Shiraz 14%. It's appearance was deep purple and it had aromas of grape must, autumn leaves, earth, and rhubarb. An exquisite nose. On the palate, it had a wonderful tannin structure and cedary complexity. It was hard to describe it except that it really reflects the land.
Additional Notes: Jasper Hill uses really expensive corks, at $2 per piece that are 50 mm long and has been hand selected laboriously. Ron doesn't like the idea of screwcaps made of synthetic plastic being in contact with his wines.
Wild Duck Creek Estate
It was a pleasure to meet Liam Anderson, who is the running most of the winemaking these days for the last 6-7 years at Wild Duck Creek. He has got his wine science from Charles Stuart. Liam feels that he only benefited from 10% of his university and 90% from his Dad.
The boutique winery that is having quite a cult following makes 4000 cases a year and started producing wines in 1991, with the first vines being planted in 1988 and the oldest vineyard being planted in 1979. Little irrigation is used in the vineyard in summer and temperatures can go up to 40 degrees. Cropping yields are 2-4 tonnes/ha and the grapes are usually picked at 14.5015 baume. Most of the time, the grapes have a natural acid of 7.5 g/L and there is little acid added. The estate usually sprays 2 times a year and normal weather conditions are dry with low humidity and about 450 mm of rainfall during winter. To get rid of weeds, glyphosate or straw mulch machines are used. Plastic wrap is not used as it pollutes the ground and breaks up easily. The reason why the estate wants to get rid of weeds is that the land is dry enough, weeds tend to suck up a lot of moisture from the soil.
The vineyard does suffer from frost problems two out of every three years. Although this reduces yields, the small amount of berries produced from secondary buds are not commercially viable. The estate also uses spur pruning as they believe that there is consistent bud burst and the grapes ripen properly. For them, cane pruning produces an inconsistent number of fruit quantity, and ripens faster. The use cane pruning for their merlot. Liam feels that less buds and more leaves on the vine is best for it. Too many buds on the vine and the leaves will falls off and vines will be stressed so the vines can't cope. To Liam, the size of the arm in cane or spur doesn't make a difference but it is the nutrient cycle in the soil that are relevant two weeks into bud burst and the rate of photosynthesis. They do not use artificial nutrients but cloves (which provides nitrogen) and oats (fibrous material and good for earthworm population.)
Unknown to a lot of people, Liam feels that viognier makes a terrific varietal to grow in Heathcote. The climate and the cambrian soil helps the ripening. Chardonnay is not really produced here as it ripens too fast. The best wines are produced on heavy clay and to Liam, there is a misnomer that great wines is produced based solely on the soil structure alone. Better tannin and aromatics come fro soils with heavy clay and are spicier compared to 20 km north and grapes ripens 3 weeks later down south for Shiraz. Grapes on the East or North aspect can ripen better than those in the West and those facing South can't ripen well. There isn't much difference with row-planting direction but E-W suffers from less sun burn than N-S. With a N-W row direction, there is more even ripening.
The estate uses 100% french oak and some US oak. The toast used is medium, long and heavy toast. The fruit is very concentrate and is needs spicy expressions of oak. The fruit in Heathcote can take a lot of new oak. It takes 2-3 years for the oak to integrate into the wine and another 12 months in the bottle. The grapes are usually treated with cold soak for 1 week. Extended fermentation is risky to them as colour can be lost and skins absorb the colour or can polymerize with the tannins. Whole berry ferments are usually done one week on skins instead of whole bunch ferments as it would impart a woody character. In the Yarra, it is different as it is a higher rainfall and the stalks a less woody and thick.
Red Edge
Peter Dredge runs Red Edge wines (notice the play of words on his last name). He owns 14 ha of land under vines and grows many different grapes on his land such as riesling, mourvèdre and even graciano. Peter uses cane pruning for his shiraz vines as he believes that it produces less fruit, and thus makes the quality better. According to him, in Feb 2008, temperatures can go over 35 degrees for over 7 days. When asked about the vintages in Heathcote, he mentions that in 2006 it was warm, 2007 there was a drought, 2008 was hot, 2009and 2010 were good years.
Below are some tasting notes of his wines which I find are fairly priced
Degree 2007 Heathcote Shiraz 14.8% $25
Young vines and only 500 cases made. A very interesting wine as it has 3% Riesling and 7% Mouvedre. It is deep black and has a cedary, blackberry aroma with liqourice. The palate is full and has flavours of cloves with a long length and light smoky characters. A dense wine that will go will most red meats.
Red Edge Shiraz 2007 15% $45
25% whole bunch. Wild yeast and spent 3 weeks on skins after ferment. 12 months on 80% new troncais oak. Again deep black in appearance with aromas of pepper, black tea and chocolate. Lots of flavour on the palate with rounded but not astringent tannins, coffee and liqourice impression.
Tempranillo with 5% Monastrell 2007 14.5% $28
Deep black with aromas of meat, roast peppercorn and blackberry. Savoury and meaty, it accompanied with flavours of olives and dark herbs, cinnamon and showing beautifully with chalky tannins and a long length A huge fav.
Munari Wines*
Adrian and Deborah Munari are people that you should definitely talk to if you want an informative session about the history and topology of the region. They have been around Heathcote for around 20 years and know the region very well. I will do a better write-up about their wines in my blog. They make about 3000 cases a year and do some contract winemakeing as well. Their flagship wine is the Ladys Pass Shiraz. The wine has seen only Frenh oak and has 1-2 weeks of extended maceration. They only crop 2-3 tonnes/acre which is very small for Shiraz vines. If you really want to understand more about the wines produced in this region, taste their wines and they will be happy to talk you through the vineyard. The experience is only much better understood unless you are there.
Sanguine Estate*
This is definitely a winery to visit in Heathcote. Mark Hunter is the winemaker and co-owner of this family-owned vineyard. Although he has no winemaking degree, he has gained first-hand experience from doing vintages with other winemakers. The winery set-up is very impressive and what you would expect from someone who makes wines of excellent quality. Mark describes himself as a winemaker who draws his influences from both the old and new world. Although he is not certified organic, he used methods which are organic. The vineyard is 20 ha and is with cambrian soil as well as a clay base and full of rocks. This produces fruit with tannic structure and full of berries. In a warm year, the soil looks after the vines much better and holds on to the moisture; the roots also go deeper. All his wines are fermented by wild yeast and grapes are dusted with sulphur before picking so that the grapes won't start fermenting under the hot sun. This also prevents the grape juice from oxidising and losing flavour. This is different from some vignerons who add sulphur after picking the grapes. When I asked Mark if he ever had to add yeast nutrients, he said that 2008 was the only year he had to do it as nutrient levels in the grapes were out of whack.
Mark uses whole berry ferments most of the years and whole bunches in some years. The winery itself is quite high-tech for producer that makes about 3000 cases a year(He only makes 3-4 barrels of Chardy per year). He uses his 3-tonne fermenters with pnuematic plunges. It is difficult to hand plunge 3-tonne fermenters unless it is 2 instead. To chill the must, he runs a brine solution on the sides of the tank and can maintain temperatures of up 8 degrees. In terms of reductive characters, he doesn't get much of that even with lots of lees so he doesn't have to use copper. To overcome reduction, he racks the fermenting must using gravity and this is possible with the design of his fermenters. When it comes to acid adjustment, Mark is very careful and nervous about it.
I have had the opportunity to taste some really good stuff from Mark that I would like to benchmark in the future against the wines from the States.
The 2009 Progeny Shiraz (A very good price of $20)is co-fermented with 10% with Viognier in 10% new oak. It is later combined with Shiraz that reduces the Viognier component to 1-2% Viognier. Mark tells me the shiraz with the 10% Viognier is just undrinkable. The Progeny is deep black purpple with lifted notes and has this beautiful apricot, dense fruit and black pepper. On the palate is full of ripe fruit and beautiful tannin structure. A very integrated wine./p>
The 2007 D'Orsa Shiraz 14.8% is what you want to keep for a long time. At $60, you get a deep black inky appearance with a restrained and shy nose, light herbs and soy sauce but on the palate, it is brilliant. It has a acid-fruit balanced and lots of chewy tannins. This is a wine with flavours of liqourice, pencil lead and truffles. It finishes with a immensely long length which I could still taste 5 minutes later as I drove out of the Estate. A very connected wine that is best to lay down over the next 5-10 years. Maybe even longer.
Jasper Hill
I have been blessed to be even be give some face time with the winemaker, Ron Laughton, who is has his background in food science and is practitioner of Biodynamic Wines (no insecticides, herbicides, synthetic fungicides, artificial fertilisers) since 1998 although he says that he is not religious about it, only about the principles behind it. Coming from a food science background, he still questions many of the principles of Biodynamics which is why he only uses what he believes in and doesn't bother to get certification from any organisation. However, after talking to him, I do feel that if he really wanted certification, he would have no problems at all and he is no different from one who is certified.
The production is small. Only 2500 cases made and all the wines come from vineyards that are un-irrigated so there are no drippers. The vines are on its original rootstocks and are ungrafted to the American ones. One of his vineyards are planted with Hermitage clones from Chapoutier's vineyard. The vineyard is 25 ha and the first plantings were in 1975/76. This year is going to be its 29th Vintage. Both the famous Emily's paddock and Georgia's paddock have cambrian soils that are 500 million years old with a Basaltic bed rock. The soils are over 3 m deep with red iron and gravelly loam. Both vineyards are 329 m above sea level. The Emily has a NE aspect and is shallower while Georgia has NW facing slopes and deeper soils. There is little hoeing of the ground and lightweight 4WD tracters are used to minimise soil compaction.
The 2009 Cornella Vinyard Grenache 14.5% was an excellent wine and unlike the McLaren Vale style Grenache. Deep purple fading to light with a medium gradient, it has nice floral characters and a lifted rose water smell with light soy and spice. There was a complexity to it that is unlike other Grenache. On the Palate, it was juicy, bursting of lolli flavours but not overtly lolli with good natural acid.
I asked Ron if he adds any acid to his wines. He responded that he bought a bag of tartaric acid in 1982 and still has not used it. Everything is done by wild yeast and he conducts a 6 week post-maceration as he believes this produces better tannin structure to the wine. According to Ron, the first part of the fermentation is aerobic where the yeast cells need oxygen to grow but the last part of the ferment is anaerobic when it is in the tank. The long post-fermentation allows tannins in the skin and pips to polymerize better when in contact with the alcohol. He also racks according to the calender.
To Ron, minimal intervention is the buzzword and it is all about putting as little work into the winemaking as possible to get the maximum results. Ron uses stuff in the vineyard to keep his vines healthy like milk powder spray where he puts it on the leaves so that lactic bacteria sticks on the leave and grows on it. This prevents
other organisms from getting in and also causes natural MLF. He hasn't used copper on his vines for more than 15 years. Ron is convinced that 500 is highly concentrated in micro life forms and flora. The cow shit in horn transforms to sweet compost with high content of micro flora and organisms. It is kept in a dark spot where it is cool, dark and moist where micro organisms can thrive and then stirred with water at the right temperature so as not to shock the micro organisms and to infuse the water with oxygen that is conducive for soil health.
Speaking to Ron was enlightening. He explained to me the concept of a forest being closed system where the leaves fall and die, and are digested back into the soil and organisms are living in harmony with each other. However, his vineyard is not a closed system as wine is being produced from the land and is being sold. Terrior is lost. It is a closed system if the wine is being poured back into the soil. The terrior has the tendency to reflect the type of fertilisers used e.g those with potassium. The thing about BD is that it makes the organism at bed rock work to make more snails and give building blocks for flowers and colour. The soil is believed to be alive and the everything that comes from the soil is used to make the 500 and fed back into it. A vineyard with harmony and balance is more resistant to stress. When mosses and lichens are seen in the soil, it is a sign that the soil is becoming dead. Ron feels that weed killers are for lazy farmers and that so farmers destroy their soil health by using glycol to get rid of grass. To him, weeds are grass that you don't want and he usually has no problem with grass growing in his vineyard. He doesn't worry about birds as well as he thinks that birds are part of the vineyard ecology and many birds eating up grapes in the vineyard is a sign of a system that is not balanced.
In 1987, there was a bushfire and they had to cut the grass short to prevent the vineyards from getting burned. Occasionally, the alternate rows are being ploughed to aerate the soil. Other concepts like minimal cultivation (planting legumes) keep the place alive and healthy. The first vines were widely planted (12 by 6ft) as it is not irrigated and water stress is prevented. The soil can only offer so much and thus, the more vines per ha, the less yield per vine. When it comes to picking, Ron realises that in the last 2 years, the sugar are ahead of the flavours. However, he picks on ripe tannins and flavours, not on sugars.
We also tasted the 2009 Georgia's Paddock Shiraz 14%. It's appearance was deep purple and it had aromas of grape must, autumn leaves, earth, and rhubarb. An exquisite nose. On the palate, it had a wonderful tannin structure and cedary complexity. It was hard to describe it except that it really reflects the land.
Additional Notes: Jasper Hill uses really expensive corks, at $2 per piece that are 50 mm long and has been hand selected laboriously. Ron doesn't like the idea of screwcaps made of synthetic plastic being in contact with his wines.
Wild Duck Creek Estate
It was a pleasure to meet Liam Anderson, who is the running most of the winemaking these days for the last 6-7 years at Wild Duck Creek. He has got his wine science from Charles Stuart. Liam feels that he only benefited from 10% of his university and 90% from his Dad.
The boutique winery that is having quite a cult following makes 4000 cases a year and started producing wines in 1991, with the first vines being planted in 1988 and the oldest vineyard being planted in 1979. Little irrigation is used in the vineyard in summer and temperatures can go up to 40 degrees. Cropping yields are 2-4 tonnes/ha and the grapes are usually picked at 14.5015 baume. Most of the time, the grapes have a natural acid of 7.5 g/L and there is little acid added. The estate usually sprays 2 times a year and normal weather conditions are dry with low humidity and about 450 mm of rainfall during winter. To get rid of weeds, glyphosate or straw mulch machines are used. Plastic wrap is not used as it pollutes the ground and breaks up easily. The reason why the estate wants to get rid of weeds is that the land is dry enough, weeds tend to suck up a lot of moisture from the soil.
The vineyard does suffer from frost problems two out of every three years. Although this reduces yields, the small amount of berries produced from secondary buds are not commercially viable. The estate also uses spur pruning as they believe that there is consistent bud burst and the grapes ripen properly. For them, cane pruning produces an inconsistent number of fruit quantity, and ripens faster. The use cane pruning for their merlot. Liam feels that less buds and more leaves on the vine is best for it. Too many buds on the vine and the leaves will falls off and vines will be stressed so the vines can't cope. To Liam, the size of the arm in cane or spur doesn't make a difference but it is the nutrient cycle in the soil that are relevant two weeks into bud burst and the rate of photosynthesis. They do not use artificial nutrients but cloves (which provides nitrogen) and oats (fibrous material and good for earthworm population.)
Unknown to a lot of people, Liam feels that viognier makes a terrific varietal to grow in Heathcote. The climate and the cambrian soil helps the ripening. Chardonnay is not really produced here as it ripens too fast. The best wines are produced on heavy clay and to Liam, there is a misnomer that great wines is produced based solely on the soil structure alone. Better tannin and aromatics come fro soils with heavy clay and are spicier compared to 20 km north and grapes ripens 3 weeks later down south for Shiraz. Grapes on the East or North aspect can ripen better than those in the West and those facing South can't ripen well. There isn't much difference with row-planting direction but E-W suffers from less sun burn than N-S. With a N-W row direction, there is more even ripening.
The estate uses 100% french oak and some US oak. The toast used is medium, long and heavy toast. The fruit is very concentrate and is needs spicy expressions of oak. The fruit in Heathcote can take a lot of new oak. It takes 2-3 years for the oak to integrate into the wine and another 12 months in the bottle. The grapes are usually treated with cold soak for 1 week. Extended fermentation is risky to them as colour can be lost and skins absorb the colour or can polymerize with the tannins. Whole berry ferments are usually done one week on skins instead of whole bunch ferments as it would impart a woody character. In the Yarra, it is different as it is a higher rainfall and the stalks a less woody and thick.
Red Edge
Peter Dredge runs Red Edge wines (notice the play of words on his last name). He owns 14 ha of land under vines and grows many different grapes on his land such as riesling, mourvèdre and even graciano. Peter uses cane pruning for his shiraz vines as he believes that it produces less fruit, and thus makes the quality better. According to him, in Feb 2008, temperatures can go over 35 degrees for over 7 days. When asked about the vintages in Heathcote, he mentions that in 2006 it was warm, 2007 there was a drought, 2008 was hot, 2009and 2010 were good years.
Below are some tasting notes of his wines which I find are fairly priced
Degree 2007 Heathcote Shiraz 14.8% $25
Young vines and only 500 cases made. A very interesting wine as it has 3% Riesling and 7% Mouvedre. It is deep black and has a cedary, blackberry aroma with liqourice. The palate is full and has flavours of cloves with a long length and light smoky characters. A dense wine that will go will most red meats.
Red Edge Shiraz 2007 15% $45
25% whole bunch. Wild yeast and spent 3 weeks on skins after ferment. 12 months on 80% new troncais oak. Again deep black in appearance with aromas of pepper, black tea and chocolate. Lots of flavour on the palate with rounded but not astringent tannins, coffee and liqourice impression.
Tempranillo with 5% Monastrell 2007 14.5% $28
Deep black with aromas of meat, roast peppercorn and blackberry. Savoury and meaty, it accompanied with flavours of olives and dark herbs, cinnamon and showing beautifully with chalky tannins and a long length A huge fav.
Munari Wines*
Adrian and Deborah Munari are people that you should definitely talk to if you want an informative session about the history and topology of the region. They have been around Heathcote for around 20 years and know the region very well. I will do a better write-up about their wines in my blog. They make about 3000 cases a year and do some contract winemakeing as well. Their flagship wine is the Ladys Pass Shiraz. The wine has seen only Frenh oak and has 1-2 weeks of extended maceration. They only crop 2-3 tonnes/acre which is very small for Shiraz vines. If you really want to understand more about the wines produced in this region, taste their wines and they will be happy to talk you through the vineyard. The experience is only much better understood unless you are there.
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Yarra Valley Day 3 14/12/10
I woke up later than usual, feeling exhausted. I had a big day ahead of me, after having reached the Yarra last night after a 1.5 hour drive from Mornington. It will be another 1.5 hour drive to Heathcote after today.
The Yarra Valley was such a joy to drive around unlike Mornington. It reminded me of the Hunter except that you could really see the hills around the region. The Yarra is know for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay although I would say that they make really good Shiraz as well, the best I have seen so far after 2 days here. Summers here can reach up to 32 degrees and last year was pretty bad with the bushfires, reaching up to 42 degrees. There has been an extensive drought in the region so far over the last ten years. The first grapes were planted in the 1860s and it was varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chasselas. The early settlers and winemakers in the region were Swiss-French. It was in 1921 that the wine industry in the Yarra came to a halt. Most of the region has red volcanic soil although it does vary greatly according to site. At Lilydale, it is much cooler. Whites are harvested as early as Jan and reds up to even late April. It is much warmer up north than down south at Lilydale.
Dominque Portet
This was my first stop. The winemakers are Frenchman, Dominque and his son, Ben. Dominque's father was André, who used to be the winemaker for Château Lafite. He had two sons - Bernard, who went to Napa in 1976 to set up Clos du Val & Dominque Himself. Today, Domnique and his son, Ben are involved in the winemaking together. The property under vines is 8 ha and they produce 12000 cases. I recommend that you try thier sparkling wines and thier Gippsland PN.
Oakridge
The vines at Oakridge
I highly recommend as well that you pay Oakridge a visit. Cellar door staff, Stephen is has excellent wine knowledge and will be able to answer most of your questions. According to him, Oakridge has transferred hands about 4 times. This is a great place to really taste Chardonnays and thier Shirazs. They use wild yeast ferments and for thier Shiraz, they usually like to use whole bunch ferments. What suprised me is the amount of Viognier they use in thier Shiraz, about 6-7%, unlike the amount of Viognier that Canberra uses with is around 3%. Yet, they still have really wonderful lifted aromas that are not dominated by the Viognier. Amazing! I do agree with Stephen that the riper and jammier the Shiraz fruit, the harder it is to integrate with the Viognier. I do notice that Shiraz Viognier with higher alcohols tend to have less Viognier in them but this is just a generalization. Alcohol is not a sign of physiological ripeness. I really recommend that you try the 864 Chardonnay and both their Estate Shiraz and 864 Shiraz, which is thier flagship Shiraz.
Domaine Chandon
This is a place worth paying a visit to with thier glamourous facilities but in terms of tasting thier wines, I wasn't that impressed. It was what you would expect from a commercial style. Thier staff service weren't informative and I found them to be quite poncy about the wine. I don't think it is right to tell the consumer in what order they should drink their wines as long as they enjoy themselves. I was told "You may start from the top of the list and you are only allowed to go down but not back up again". Bloody ridiculous!
Their wine tour is free at is at 11 am, 1pm and 3 pm. I went on thier wine tour but didn't find the guide very knowledgeable about the Champagne method when people were asking her quesitons about the wines. Most of time, she regurgitated the words that were on the wall. Still, it is good for absolute novices to learn about Sparkling wines. I tasted thier Z*D Blanc de Blanc and 2002 Prestige Cuvée. Good wines but great? Or has it been left opened for too long? One thing is for sure, I can't find much of the bready, yeasty character that lovers of Sparkies crave for. BTW, for the last two wines, it's $1 per tasting.
Yeringberg*
This winery is a definite must go in the Yarra. Sandra de Puy is the winemaker/co-owner of this small setup. The winery is in the middle of Damaine Chandon and St Hubert and is not on the Yarra Valley wine map. It is only open by appointment. I have had the good fortune to meet Sandra at a wine show in Sydney.
Notice that big barrel behind. That was the fermentation vessel which Yeringberg used to do their ferments in and it is over 100 years old.
Yeringberg has so much history behind it when it comes to winemaking. She is the 4th Generation of the de Puy family line who are Swiss-French in origin. Winemaking started for the de Puy family in 1860s all the way to 1921. They were the pioneers of the grape growing industry in Yarra. It was the last winery to shut down in 1921 before grapegrowing restarted again in the Yarra Valley decades later. Her great-grandfather had teh title of a Baron and was the councillor for Switzerland. He also became the president of the local government in Yarra.
And the old carriage left behind by Sandra's nan.
The wall of awards for Yeringberg at the wine shows. History goes a long way back for them
The property now is 1200 acres, and 7 acres were under vines. Another 50 acres are being sold as fruit to other producers in the region. Temperatures in the summer go up to 40 degrees in Summer. Most of the Yeringberg fruit is grown on grey loam with a clay rock subsoil and gravel. The N-E slopes get good sun and rainfall is 700-800mm. The two tonne open-top fermenters are not temperature controlled and were milk vats - the best type of fermenters for Shiraz. To me, Sandra uses simple and easy techniques in winemaking that I wonder why other people don't do the same thing as her when it makes so much sense and is so easy. For example, Yeringberg uses sorting tables during harvest to take out other materials besides grapes from the 8-9 kg picking buckets. It takes just an extra 30 minutes to sort out the good from the bad grapes, like those affected by botrytis. Sandra doesn't believe in creating a second label. If any wine doesn't make the cut, she either dumps it out or seels a declassified wine like her 2007 Cabernet which will be stamped with declassified on the label with a price tag of around $20.
This is the second floor of the fermenation area. The grapes are being hoisted up and put into the trolley, and rolled along the railway tracks. And then its dumped into the big wooden fermentation vats
The fermentation vats from a top view.
The modern day fermenation vats made from steel. This was actually used for milk before it was bought by Yeringberg. Temperature is better controlled in this vessel by running water on its sides.
The cellar is kept at a cool temperature of 15 degrees. Barrels are tilted so that the wine is touching the top bung so that there is a vacuum above the barrels and the barrels don't have to be topped up all the time. This doesn't reduce the amount of the angel's share but it reduces oxygen contact with the wines and the only oxygen contact would be the breathing of air through the barrels. This tilting can be done with the set-up that Sandra has because the barrels are not on metal racks. She only checks the barrels every 2-3 months.
We tasted some of her wines still in the barrel. Her 2010 Marsanne was gorgeous, showing the white blossomes and flowers. It was fermented dry in steel and then transferred to old oak. No fining done. She only does fining with her reds using egg whites. In another barrel, we tasted a Marsanne co-fermented with Rousanne using wild yeast all fermented in teh barrel. It had this mineral, leesy complexity with a good length and light nutty, stone fruit flavours in the back.
The 2010 Chardonnay in the barrel had good clean fruit, that was so clean and a long length with melon flavours. No MLF and it is about 12.5% alch. A very clear, clean chardonnay without fining. The 2010 Chardonnay in 100% new oak was sppicy, rich and cedary with beautiful oakish perfume, cashew nuts characters. Both free run and pressings were in teh barrel and Sandra usually draws 600 l/ tonne and presses at 150ky/cm2.
I do want to talk about the 2010 Shiraz that we tasted that normally retails for $60 It had such fruit power in there but a soft finish and a silky palate. Gorgeous!
Sandra tells a really funny story of how she gets calls from oak barrel suppliers who come down to her barrel room to taste the wines in her barrels. I asked if they are really getting any information about thier product when they do that, and Sandra said that everytime they taste the wines in thier barrels, they would praise it but when they taste the wines in the competitor's barrel, they would wouldn't say much.
St Hubert
It is worth popping in here to take a look at thier Chardonnays, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Greg Harratt is the winemaker here. Their Chardy usually has no MLF. I found thier PN pretty low in acid for a PN and thier Cab Sauv is just classic, berry fruit, cigar and pencil lead. Check it out.
Yering Station*
A must-go place. Willy Lunn is the winemaker. Very good quality Sparkling Wines that are so much cheaper than Domaine Chandon. Do try thier Yarrabank 2002 Late disgorged. That is a wine to benchmart Sparkling wines against. They also make a sweet Sparkling wine style called Crème de Cuvée with 30 g/l of sugar. Almost all their wines are lovely. Thier 2009 Sauvignon Blanc has a starfruit smell to it that is quite rare in SB. MOst of the stuff are wonderful although I tasted a few off-bottles that could be attributed to just the bottle itself like thier 2007 Shiraz Viognier and thier single vineyard PN 2007 which had some TCA in there. However, it doesn't mean that the other bottles are bad. Could just be the ones I tasted.
I have had the good fortune to try the 2005 Reserve Chardonnay 13.5% and 2005 Reserve Shiraz Viognier 14.5% which both cost $75 each as they were generous enough to open a fresh bottle of each of them for me to taste. The Chardonnay has only 300 cases and were cropped at 1.2 tonnes/acre. It is 50% new oak and 50% old, both french. There is no MLF and has gone through 15 mths of lees stirring. Some Mendoza clones were used. On the nose is the rich leesy, pineapply, cinnamon spice characters with heady cramael, cedar and vanillin aromas. ON the papalte it was creamy, rich and yeasty with a very long length, finishing off with a oak backpalate and a yoghurty taste. The SV had 5% Viognier and was from 100% new oak and for 16 motnhs. It was just deep ink with an aroma of guts, power, black pepper, and dark cherries, heavy toaste, coffee and liqourice. The vines are 20+ years old an from teh Carr VIneyard which was full of rocks and gravel loam. It had an elevation of 230m. The palate was coffee, and had pluckery and drying tannins, lots of density in there with rich ripe berry, bramble and spices such as cloves and dar kherbs. It had a long length as well and finishes with blackberries. Both wines were an eye opener to taste. Is it worth the price? I think it depends if you are the sort of person who likes very bold and in-your-face flavours. I personally think the oak was showing but in a few years, the wine could possibly change and have secondary characters balance out that wood. Or it could lose its freshness and leave behind all the oak. It's a risk that one always has to take when buying a wine to age and there is no one can have a crystal ball to know how well a wine will be drinking years from now. One can only make an educated guess.
Additional Notes: If you have the chance, do dorp into Coldstream Hills Winery which make one of the best Chardonnays in Australia (It is really, really good and I have the chance to try several vintages before altough I don't feel that it is a wine worth aging because it usually drinks beautifully after 5 years).
Also go and make an appointment and see Mac Forbes who is coming up with some amazing wines, especially his Pinot Noirs and Grüner Veltliner.
I wish I had more time to visit Curly Flat & Punt Road. If I could, I would even try to make an appointment to see Mount Mary & Gembrook Hill. The last two are for serious drinkers with some serious questions to ask and unless you know a thing or two about wines, they just won't open their facilities to you.
I also found it quite strange that people in the Victoria wine industry talk in terms of acres for land while people in NSW talk in hectars.
The Yarra Valley was such a joy to drive around unlike Mornington. It reminded me of the Hunter except that you could really see the hills around the region. The Yarra is know for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay although I would say that they make really good Shiraz as well, the best I have seen so far after 2 days here. Summers here can reach up to 32 degrees and last year was pretty bad with the bushfires, reaching up to 42 degrees. There has been an extensive drought in the region so far over the last ten years. The first grapes were planted in the 1860s and it was varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chasselas. The early settlers and winemakers in the region were Swiss-French. It was in 1921 that the wine industry in the Yarra came to a halt. Most of the region has red volcanic soil although it does vary greatly according to site. At Lilydale, it is much cooler. Whites are harvested as early as Jan and reds up to even late April. It is much warmer up north than down south at Lilydale.
Dominque Portet
This was my first stop. The winemakers are Frenchman, Dominque and his son, Ben. Dominque's father was André, who used to be the winemaker for Château Lafite. He had two sons - Bernard, who went to Napa in 1976 to set up Clos du Val & Dominque Himself. Today, Domnique and his son, Ben are involved in the winemaking together. The property under vines is 8 ha and they produce 12000 cases. I recommend that you try thier sparkling wines and thier Gippsland PN.
Oakridge
The vines at Oakridge
I highly recommend as well that you pay Oakridge a visit. Cellar door staff, Stephen is has excellent wine knowledge and will be able to answer most of your questions. According to him, Oakridge has transferred hands about 4 times. This is a great place to really taste Chardonnays and thier Shirazs. They use wild yeast ferments and for thier Shiraz, they usually like to use whole bunch ferments. What suprised me is the amount of Viognier they use in thier Shiraz, about 6-7%, unlike the amount of Viognier that Canberra uses with is around 3%. Yet, they still have really wonderful lifted aromas that are not dominated by the Viognier. Amazing! I do agree with Stephen that the riper and jammier the Shiraz fruit, the harder it is to integrate with the Viognier. I do notice that Shiraz Viognier with higher alcohols tend to have less Viognier in them but this is just a generalization. Alcohol is not a sign of physiological ripeness. I really recommend that you try the 864 Chardonnay and both their Estate Shiraz and 864 Shiraz, which is thier flagship Shiraz.
Domaine Chandon
This is a place worth paying a visit to with thier glamourous facilities but in terms of tasting thier wines, I wasn't that impressed. It was what you would expect from a commercial style. Thier staff service weren't informative and I found them to be quite poncy about the wine. I don't think it is right to tell the consumer in what order they should drink their wines as long as they enjoy themselves. I was told "You may start from the top of the list and you are only allowed to go down but not back up again". Bloody ridiculous!
Their wine tour is free at is at 11 am, 1pm and 3 pm. I went on thier wine tour but didn't find the guide very knowledgeable about the Champagne method when people were asking her quesitons about the wines. Most of time, she regurgitated the words that were on the wall. Still, it is good for absolute novices to learn about Sparkling wines. I tasted thier Z*D Blanc de Blanc and 2002 Prestige Cuvée. Good wines but great? Or has it been left opened for too long? One thing is for sure, I can't find much of the bready, yeasty character that lovers of Sparkies crave for. BTW, for the last two wines, it's $1 per tasting.
Yeringberg*
This winery is a definite must go in the Yarra. Sandra de Puy is the winemaker/co-owner of this small setup. The winery is in the middle of Damaine Chandon and St Hubert and is not on the Yarra Valley wine map. It is only open by appointment. I have had the good fortune to meet Sandra at a wine show in Sydney.
Notice that big barrel behind. That was the fermentation vessel which Yeringberg used to do their ferments in and it is over 100 years old.
Yeringberg has so much history behind it when it comes to winemaking. She is the 4th Generation of the de Puy family line who are Swiss-French in origin. Winemaking started for the de Puy family in 1860s all the way to 1921. They were the pioneers of the grape growing industry in Yarra. It was the last winery to shut down in 1921 before grapegrowing restarted again in the Yarra Valley decades later. Her great-grandfather had teh title of a Baron and was the councillor for Switzerland. He also became the president of the local government in Yarra.
And the old carriage left behind by Sandra's nan.
The wall of awards for Yeringberg at the wine shows. History goes a long way back for them
The property now is 1200 acres, and 7 acres were under vines. Another 50 acres are being sold as fruit to other producers in the region. Temperatures in the summer go up to 40 degrees in Summer. Most of the Yeringberg fruit is grown on grey loam with a clay rock subsoil and gravel. The N-E slopes get good sun and rainfall is 700-800mm. The two tonne open-top fermenters are not temperature controlled and were milk vats - the best type of fermenters for Shiraz. To me, Sandra uses simple and easy techniques in winemaking that I wonder why other people don't do the same thing as her when it makes so much sense and is so easy. For example, Yeringberg uses sorting tables during harvest to take out other materials besides grapes from the 8-9 kg picking buckets. It takes just an extra 30 minutes to sort out the good from the bad grapes, like those affected by botrytis. Sandra doesn't believe in creating a second label. If any wine doesn't make the cut, she either dumps it out or seels a declassified wine like her 2007 Cabernet which will be stamped with declassified on the label with a price tag of around $20.
This is the second floor of the fermenation area. The grapes are being hoisted up and put into the trolley, and rolled along the railway tracks. And then its dumped into the big wooden fermentation vats
The fermentation vats from a top view.
The modern day fermenation vats made from steel. This was actually used for milk before it was bought by Yeringberg. Temperature is better controlled in this vessel by running water on its sides.
The cellar is kept at a cool temperature of 15 degrees. Barrels are tilted so that the wine is touching the top bung so that there is a vacuum above the barrels and the barrels don't have to be topped up all the time. This doesn't reduce the amount of the angel's share but it reduces oxygen contact with the wines and the only oxygen contact would be the breathing of air through the barrels. This tilting can be done with the set-up that Sandra has because the barrels are not on metal racks. She only checks the barrels every 2-3 months.
We tasted some of her wines still in the barrel. Her 2010 Marsanne was gorgeous, showing the white blossomes and flowers. It was fermented dry in steel and then transferred to old oak. No fining done. She only does fining with her reds using egg whites. In another barrel, we tasted a Marsanne co-fermented with Rousanne using wild yeast all fermented in teh barrel. It had this mineral, leesy complexity with a good length and light nutty, stone fruit flavours in the back.
The 2010 Chardonnay in the barrel had good clean fruit, that was so clean and a long length with melon flavours. No MLF and it is about 12.5% alch. A very clear, clean chardonnay without fining. The 2010 Chardonnay in 100% new oak was sppicy, rich and cedary with beautiful oakish perfume, cashew nuts characters. Both free run and pressings were in teh barrel and Sandra usually draws 600 l/ tonne and presses at 150ky/cm2.
I do want to talk about the 2010 Shiraz that we tasted that normally retails for $60 It had such fruit power in there but a soft finish and a silky palate. Gorgeous!
Sandra tells a really funny story of how she gets calls from oak barrel suppliers who come down to her barrel room to taste the wines in her barrels. I asked if they are really getting any information about thier product when they do that, and Sandra said that everytime they taste the wines in thier barrels, they would praise it but when they taste the wines in the competitor's barrel, they would wouldn't say much.
St Hubert
It is worth popping in here to take a look at thier Chardonnays, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Greg Harratt is the winemaker here. Their Chardy usually has no MLF. I found thier PN pretty low in acid for a PN and thier Cab Sauv is just classic, berry fruit, cigar and pencil lead. Check it out.
Yering Station*
A must-go place. Willy Lunn is the winemaker. Very good quality Sparkling Wines that are so much cheaper than Domaine Chandon. Do try thier Yarrabank 2002 Late disgorged. That is a wine to benchmart Sparkling wines against. They also make a sweet Sparkling wine style called Crème de Cuvée with 30 g/l of sugar. Almost all their wines are lovely. Thier 2009 Sauvignon Blanc has a starfruit smell to it that is quite rare in SB. MOst of the stuff are wonderful although I tasted a few off-bottles that could be attributed to just the bottle itself like thier 2007 Shiraz Viognier and thier single vineyard PN 2007 which had some TCA in there. However, it doesn't mean that the other bottles are bad. Could just be the ones I tasted.
I have had the good fortune to try the 2005 Reserve Chardonnay 13.5% and 2005 Reserve Shiraz Viognier 14.5% which both cost $75 each as they were generous enough to open a fresh bottle of each of them for me to taste. The Chardonnay has only 300 cases and were cropped at 1.2 tonnes/acre. It is 50% new oak and 50% old, both french. There is no MLF and has gone through 15 mths of lees stirring. Some Mendoza clones were used. On the nose is the rich leesy, pineapply, cinnamon spice characters with heady cramael, cedar and vanillin aromas. ON the papalte it was creamy, rich and yeasty with a very long length, finishing off with a oak backpalate and a yoghurty taste. The SV had 5% Viognier and was from 100% new oak and for 16 motnhs. It was just deep ink with an aroma of guts, power, black pepper, and dark cherries, heavy toaste, coffee and liqourice. The vines are 20+ years old an from teh Carr VIneyard which was full of rocks and gravel loam. It had an elevation of 230m. The palate was coffee, and had pluckery and drying tannins, lots of density in there with rich ripe berry, bramble and spices such as cloves and dar kherbs. It had a long length as well and finishes with blackberries. Both wines were an eye opener to taste. Is it worth the price? I think it depends if you are the sort of person who likes very bold and in-your-face flavours. I personally think the oak was showing but in a few years, the wine could possibly change and have secondary characters balance out that wood. Or it could lose its freshness and leave behind all the oak. It's a risk that one always has to take when buying a wine to age and there is no one can have a crystal ball to know how well a wine will be drinking years from now. One can only make an educated guess.
Additional Notes: If you have the chance, do dorp into Coldstream Hills Winery which make one of the best Chardonnays in Australia (It is really, really good and I have the chance to try several vintages before altough I don't feel that it is a wine worth aging because it usually drinks beautifully after 5 years).
Also go and make an appointment and see Mac Forbes who is coming up with some amazing wines, especially his Pinot Noirs and Grüner Veltliner.
I wish I had more time to visit Curly Flat & Punt Road. If I could, I would even try to make an appointment to see Mount Mary & Gembrook Hill. The last two are for serious drinkers with some serious questions to ask and unless you know a thing or two about wines, they just won't open their facilities to you.
I also found it quite strange that people in the Victoria wine industry talk in terms of acres for land while people in NSW talk in hectars.
Monday, December 13, 2010
Mornington Peninsula Day 2 13/12/10
I woke up in the morning after having slept for 10 hours. Yesterday's journey was just too exhausting but today I am feeling much better. Left the motel at 9.30 am and the first place I heading to was Paringa Estate.
Paringa EstateThey charge a tasting fee of $2 but it was well worth it for tasting the wines they make. Lindsay McCall is the winemaker and owner and he has been doing his wines for 25 years. I wished I could have met him but he was so busy with the vines that he hasn't shown up at the cellar door since the morning. Paringa produces 16 thousand cases a year and that is quite an achievement from a small boutique producer to what it has become today. The interesting thing about the estate is that the vines are being trained in the Lyre shape as well. And besides that they are sloping on a hill and the rows are planted E-W. Vine spacings are about 1.5m to 3m on rich red volcanic soil. There is a tendency for his wines, even his Pinot Gris and Rieslings to reach high alcohol levels of 14%. Still his Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays are stunning.
His 2010 Riesling is 14.8% alcohol (that's high!) but retains youthfulness and exuberance in the acid. The fruit was whole bunch pressed and cool tank fermented.
I do find his Estate Chardonnay 2007 much richer than his 2008 Peninsula Chard. It is also more expensive! AUD35 vs AUD22
Strange enough, his Pinot Noir is so much heavier on the colour spectrum for Red Hill South area compared to the Merricks area. I wonder if this has anything to do with leaving the grapes longer on the vines and producing those darker colours on the skins just as higher sugar levels give rise to the higher alcohol in his wines. Again the Estate triumphs over the Peninsula range. $60 vs $27. Is that justified? Wait till you see his reserve which is priced at $90. One thing for sure is that it is a quality Pinot Noir comparable to what France is producing for a much higher price. Is it possible to get a cheaper Pinot at that sort of quality? I would be eager to say yes after tasting the Stonier yesterday but the truth is that the Stonier is not treated in the same way as the Paringa. Both have good quality fruit but in terms of style, both winemakers have different approaches.
(BTW, Stonier is owned by Lion Nathan).
T'Gallant
Next stop, T'Gallant vineyards which is owned by Fosters. This is the place to visit if you want to try Pinot Gris/Grigio (I have an interested story to tell as you read on about Pinot Gris/Grigio). This vineyard owns the oldest PG vines in the whole of Australia, which is 24 years old. Their range of PG they produce goes from steely, high acid and crisp to luscious and full of a heavy mid-palate.
Port Philip Estate/Kooyong
I managed to squeeze some time to stop by at Port Philip Estate/Kooyong which makes some fantastic wines in a different style by Sandro Moselo. I was told he was Italian but with a German last name. Tastings here are $10 per head but with the range tasted, I do feel that it is worth trying. I can see Sandro is influenced very much by his European heritage in terms of winemaking. He produces wines that range from $26-$65 but I do believe they fit the price range. I think in terms of export, it would have to be more competitive once retailers put a margin on it. The vines grown on soils which are iron schist & clay. Interesting to try would be the 2007 Kooyong Clonale Chardonnay which is very Chablis in style but not quite Chablis. It has all this mineral, peach and good acid structure. I was almost tempted to buy a bottle as the price is attractive - AUD28. I decided against it as I know it would start a buying spree and my bag can't take anymore weight. This is a wine I would like to benchmark against for that price for it display of elegance. His 2010 Quartier Arnies is what I consider the best I have tasted so far in Australia. It is wild-yeast fermented in whole bunch and some are done in tank and some in old french barriques. Flavours are melon and rose with a zing to it.
In his Pinot Noirs, you can find that grapefruit/ ruby red colour that Paringa doesn't have. The 2008 Kooyong Estate PN was delicious with lifted notes of fruit but it was the 2008 Port Phillip Estate Morillon that was it's complete opposite. Fermented in open vats for 21 days, 16 months spent in 30% new french oak, it was a much more earthier and mushroom style, but subtly. In a sense, it reminded me of a Pommard with less acid.
It is also worth trying his Shiraz which has that muskiness to it(I now figured out what that cool climate smell I have been getting since yesterday in the Shiraz is called and I call it musky) as well as his Barbera.
What is really worth visiting if you hit Mornington is the next two wineries that I am going to write about. I really love this two wineries, not just for the wines but for the people as well. As you know, when you like both the people and the wine, you get magic every time you drink their wines - a sort of delightedness that fills your heart; a feeling that someone cares about you.
Phaedrus Estate*
The vines of Phaedrus
Phaedrus Estate is owned by Ewan Campbell who is also the winemaker/owner. He has been making wine here for 13 years and is very knowledgeable of the region. He owns 10 acres of Pinot Noir with 6 clones: D5, D12, 114, 115, G5, G15 (G5 & G15 produces earthier flavours), MV6. He has also has Chardonnay is also Bernard clones of 95 and 96. His vine spacing is 2m x 3m spacing and are 10 years old. He does at really good Pinot Gris for just $17 as well as a Shiraz for $20. Very good value in my opinion.
Ewan's philosphy in treating the vines is to let it do its own thing. Don't cut itl don't trim it; don't thin it. The more you do that, the vines tend to grow lateral shoors and then it starts to grown longer to compensate for the loss of leaves. So far, he has only done 5-6 sprays on the vines,].
According to him, the Mornington is separated into 3 different soil areas. Mooronduc is more sandy loam over clay; Red Hill is more volcanic red clay and is very fertile; Merricks is more sandy at the edge of the coast. In Mooronduc, PNs there tend to be more plumy as it is a warmer and dry area that can ripen Shiraz better. Merricks and Red Hill tend to produce more cherries aroma in their PNs. Ewan believes that the region ripens PN fruit very well.
Berry set occurs in December and harvest is usually in late Feb to March. There was one day in 2009 which was 46 degrees but 30 is the max over here, according to Ewan. When temperatures get to high, the vine shuts down and the berries start to shrival adn fall off the rachis easily. The maritime climate helps to have cooler temperatures as well provide for consistent temperatures during the day and night. Temperatures are steady, maintaining at 22 degrees at night. This gives a good ripening period which last on the average of 50-70 days although 100 days can happen but is unusual. So far 5-6 sprays have been carried out the vineyard. Rainfall is 600mm in the region although 900mm does occurs in Redhill. There aren't a lot of frost issues in the region and it was in 2007 when frost last happened but that was a one in 40 years event.
Ewan was kind enough to open a bottle of PN 2010, which was bottled 4 weeks ago. It had flavours of oolong tea, good acid balance, rose water which I find predominant in the PNs of this region and a long peppery finish. Very good considering it has yet to recover from bottling.
The 2009 Chardonnay was also excellent. Fragrant with cashew in there. At 13.3% alc, and 15% new oak, it had citrusy aromas wiht lees. There was a slight MLF in there and had a savoury nuttiness to it.
His 2009 Shiraz is also worth looking at with a 14.6% alc, spices, earth, cloves and mushrooms
I also want to add that apart from the PN2010, the rest of his wines including the Pinot Gris were opened on Saturday. Yet it tasted so amazingly delicious after so many days. It didn't taste tired at all.
Quea!y*
These guys are another must see from the region. Kevin and Kathleen are the owners of this winery and they used to run T'Gallant before selling it to Fosters. Kevin himself is huge enthusiast about wine education and makes wine fun to learn. He is lively, invigorating to listen and speaks with a passion that makes you want to know more about his ideas and opinions. He is into what he calls "the acceleration of maturity of the consumer". He calls his PinotG "Remato" meaning copper as PinotG tends to impart a sort of copper colour to the wines because it has skin that is between black and white.
Accordinging Kevin, he palanted Pinot Gris in the Mornington in 1988 just to explore the different styles. PG was not understood by Australia back then. It was only 6 years later, that PG started breaking into the Australian palate. Kevin feels that that this varietal is very mich misunderstood. The Italians would call PG Grigio and the French would call it Gris; there was no simplicity. However in 2007, the Australian Wine Research Institute discovered a way of looking at PG objuectively. A man called Daniel Cozzolino was using Spectrometry to breakdown PG into its 230000 compounds . According to the reading, he could tell what style PG was from a scale of 0-10 and which country it came from. Interesting? I recommend you go and visit http://www.pinog.com.au/. Kevin is one of the founders of this site. To me, the spectrum of flavours and aromas in PG is not something new as Andrea Immer MS has also suggested this before. But the idea that Kevin shares is revolutionary in its own way. Imagine wineries around the world using the scale from crisp to luscious for thier PGs. The scale doesn't talk about wine quality or whether the higher the scale, the more the price. It talks about the style of the wine and gives people an indication of how to match thier wines with their food because the scale guarantees it through spectrometry. Different terriors will generate a sort of fingerprint for the wines.
To Kevin, Grigio is Gris. There isn't a difference. He explained to me that many flavours in Gris overlap with Grigio. When he was in Italy, the grigio he tasted ranged from crisp to in-your-face-power (he quoted the producer, Germann). In France, the PG was picked at 11 Baume and was tight and austere, crisp and not as rich. It tasted steely, minerally, and flinty. But when he tasted Zind Humbrecht's SGN, it was rich and like what he describes as "flying with the gods". Kevin feels that there is a spectrum, a sort of continuum of flavours for wines made around the world and people will understand much better what they are drinking by using this scale. It will also make them more confident to talk about the wine.
Kevin shares the same dream as I do - to set up a school/education experience one day for people to be confident and be able to talk about wine from experience. Like him, I believe that people crave knowledge and don't want ot look stupid.
I shall put up some tasting notes of his wines in the later part of the trip. For now, I do want to talk about an interesting wine that Kevin is doing which is Fruiliano, an italain grape from Fuili. He is trying to be a pioneer for this grape just as he did with PinotG years ago and he has generated some interesting results. His 2010 Fuiliano is pale green with aromas of pears, green apples, and white flowers. On the palate is pear drip, white flowers, high acid which gives the wine a good line of length. This is like a PinotG except that it has higher acid and that beautiful white flower aroma to it. I believe he is on to something here.
When I asked him where did he get the bud wood for Fruiliano, I was expecting him to tell me that he took in from some vineyard in Italy and brought it over here without telling the guys at the airport. According to him, the bud wood was found at mildura and a famous chap called Allan Ancliff at CSIRO had a giant collection of everything; form sangiovese to barbera to nebiolo ro picolit. So some bloke took the bud wood and planted a row of each and Kevin met the bloke by happenstance and was able to get some of the bud wood from him.
Arrange an appointment with Kevin and try his wines. You will definitely fall in love with his wines and his enthusiasm.
End of the Day
Day 2 and today it seems people in Victoria are much more friendlier. Maybe I was at the wrong place at the wrong time in Day 1. I get that a lot.
Additional Notes: The Mornington is the only wine region I have been to so far in Australia where vineyards are separated by lots of trees. It is a foresty region unlike Canberra and the Hunter. To find each winery, you have to go through roads full of trees just to get there.Sunday, December 12, 2010
Geelong & Mornington Peninsula Day 1 12/12/10
I touched down at 8.45 am in Victoria Avalon Airport. Then, I rented a car a drove straight to Geelong, which wasn't very far away, just around 40 minutes. Down there I tasted some wines around the area. I don't understand what it is with the region, but not many vignerons in Geelong are as welcoming as the vignerons in NSW to talk about their wines. Some even charge for tastings. I suppose times must be so bad that they have to cover their cost for opening the wines. It was a slightly rainy day. To most people, Geelong is a region but it seems that everyone has a different view. Geelong is split into three unofficial sub-regions: Moorabool Valley (Continental climate), Surf Coast & The Bellarine. There are about 43 different vineyards in the area. It is a cool climate region with an average temperature of 19 degree Celsius. In the summer, it can get up to 35 degrees at times. Moorabool has rich volcanic soils. The Bellarine has rich, loamy soils over a limestone base. Surf Coast has more of a basalt soil. The region is very much known for its Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Shiraz. Although the wines from the Bellarine make delicious wines, I find the prices not too attractive. Perhaps it is because the majority of producers in this region is small and economy of scale is not present.
Jack Rabbit
Places to visit are Jack Rabbit which produces the Kilgour Estate range. They make 400 cases a year and their Pinot Noirs are clean and are fruit forward. The noticeable thing about their Pinot Noirs is that the colour is not deep but very much has the colour of the flesh of the inside of a grapefruit. I find that fascinating when I compare them to the Pinot Noirs of Leura Park. Their sparkling Cabernet is a must try too. Full of blackcurrant characters and a slight off-dry touch.
Just imagine the sort of grapes that can be grown here in a climate like this that is just next to the ocean and is so cold.
Ballarine Estate
There is one place you have to go to and that is Ballarine Estate. I am very impressed by their wines. The treatment of their OMK 2008 Viognier is unique, full of custard and ginger flavours unlike any barrel fermented Viognier I have seen. Both their Portarlington Ridge range are very affordable and full of fruit characters. The grapes are sourced form the Alphine. I have never tasted a Chardonnay at that price that has blossoms in it. Their James Paddock Chardonnay is another cracker of a wine, with ginger flavours and cinnamon aromas, plus a long length. You have to really visit them!
Somehow, I don't seem to be getting the same quality of product information that I get from the vignerons in Geelong compared to those in NSW. I wasn't very enamoured by the region so I decided to take a ferry across the Bass Strait from Queenscliff to Portsea, making my way to Mornington Peninsula, one of the best places in Australia for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
It is such a shame that this place makes so little for export that the world doesn't acknowledge its rightful place in the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay greats. So far in my wine travels around Australia, I have never seen a region that plants it's vines so close to one another, almost 1 m between vines. The close plantings were so fascinating to see I suppose the fact that it is closely planted makes the vines struggle and have its root dig deeper into the soil to take up minerals. It also means that there is no choice but to handpick the grapes because the rows are too small to machine harvest. Again, this is another region that requires you to pay so that you can taste. I find some of the tasting price absurd. Though I can understand the need to recoup costs if you are a small producer, I think that there is also a need to identify people who are interested in promoting your product since they are from the industry. I just realised that many producers may know how to make good wine, but they certainly don't know how to generate goodwill among people who could potentially help them to push up their prices. It only goes to show that making wine and running a business are two different skills.
The lyre-trained system of growing grapes. This is the first region I have seen using such a system.
We are seeing berry set here
The Mornington harvest is in March and April. The biggest wineries in the region are Yabby Lake, T'Gallant which is owed by Fosters and Kooyong. The industry is only about 30 years old with Main Ridge being the oldest - 35. A fascinating sight to come across is the Lyre trained vines at Lindenderry vineyard. This is the first time I have seen Lyre trained in Australia. Before I could study the vines some more, something unexpected happened. All I can say is that people from Victoria are different from those from NSW. Both are Australians but both are a different species. So far, I like people from NSW and Canberra. I used to think people from Victoria are friendlier and I suppose it is too early to tell since I only been here for a day. The funny thing I am getting from Victorians is that they seem to be quite suspicious of people. I'm going to remain open to my perception of them after the end of my trip.
Really funny thing I notice about the Shiraz grown in Geelong and Mornington is how different they are from NSW and Canberra. They have this cool climate aromas of something musty, and farmy that I cannot lift a finger to but I find them in Shiraz from Goulburn as well.
Stonier
Now if you really want to try an excellent wine, you have to go to Stonier. I mean it! The quality that these guys are producing is outstanding. Even their entry-level wines have very high standards. They were the standouts of today because of a few reasons. The wines were very complex in terms of the balance and perfumy aromas that both their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were able to achieve. It is rich but not overpowering. It had a softness to it that wasn't girly but was more like the expression of a confident woman. Morever, both had very good line of acid and long length in the backpalate. Although their reserve wines are somewhat pricey, I do think they are a good buy if you are getting it in Austrlaia. Their top of the tier range which I do feel was excellent doesn't have the same bang for buck as their reserve range. However, it is normal in a wine that the quality over price gradient decreases.
I also recommend that you head over to Merricks General Wine store next door and taste their wines. They represent Elgee Park Estate which makes a different style of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; a somewhat more rustic style.
Picture will come once my internet is fully running again.
Additional Notes on 13/12/10:
I also want to add that I visited the Eldridge Estate which charges $4 a tasting. It is a James Halliday Five Star vineyard, which I couldn't agree any less (I didn't know it was until I checked it today). They make excellent Pinot Noirs and Chardonnay. about 5-6 clones go into each wine and is carefully blended.
I also took a bottle of Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir with me for dinner and along with the Beef Wellington, it completed my day. The Pinot Noir was hand picked and fermented in small open 2-3 tonne fermenters with hand plunging. 5% of the final blend was whole bunch fermented and extended marceration lasted for 20 days. After that, ferments were transferred to 35% new French oak barriques for MLF and maturation for 9 months. Barrels were selected and transferred to older barrels for further maturation for 5 months. It has been in the bottle since July 2009.
In terms of colour, it was almost transparent ruby red. The nose was full of complex aromas that you could get from MLF and oak integration, generating spices of cloves and cinnamon. Moreover, the underlying fruit was there, dark cherries and light raspberries but not so apparent in such a way as a common Pinot. There were combinations of rose water, lifted flower aromas and lots of complexity in there. I cannot stress how complex it was. It was like watching a stage play with good actors and a good plot. Aromas later developed into a slight black pepper. About 3 hours since it opened and it was still going. On the palate was firm and rounded tannins coupled with good acid structure and fruit cake sweetness. Not the sweetness from sugar but from fruit. It had lovely weight in it. The length was more than 3 minutes in there and could go on forever. A pinot to die for! and did I mention that it retails for AUD50?
Jack Rabbit
Places to visit are Jack Rabbit which produces the Kilgour Estate range. They make 400 cases a year and their Pinot Noirs are clean and are fruit forward. The noticeable thing about their Pinot Noirs is that the colour is not deep but very much has the colour of the flesh of the inside of a grapefruit. I find that fascinating when I compare them to the Pinot Noirs of Leura Park. Their sparkling Cabernet is a must try too. Full of blackcurrant characters and a slight off-dry touch.
Just imagine the sort of grapes that can be grown here in a climate like this that is just next to the ocean and is so cold.
Ballarine Estate
There is one place you have to go to and that is Ballarine Estate. I am very impressed by their wines. The treatment of their OMK 2008 Viognier is unique, full of custard and ginger flavours unlike any barrel fermented Viognier I have seen. Both their Portarlington Ridge range are very affordable and full of fruit characters. The grapes are sourced form the Alphine. I have never tasted a Chardonnay at that price that has blossoms in it. Their James Paddock Chardonnay is another cracker of a wine, with ginger flavours and cinnamon aromas, plus a long length. You have to really visit them!
Somehow, I don't seem to be getting the same quality of product information that I get from the vignerons in Geelong compared to those in NSW. I wasn't very enamoured by the region so I decided to take a ferry across the Bass Strait from Queenscliff to Portsea, making my way to Mornington Peninsula, one of the best places in Australia for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
It is such a shame that this place makes so little for export that the world doesn't acknowledge its rightful place in the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay greats. So far in my wine travels around Australia, I have never seen a region that plants it's vines so close to one another, almost 1 m between vines. The close plantings were so fascinating to see I suppose the fact that it is closely planted makes the vines struggle and have its root dig deeper into the soil to take up minerals. It also means that there is no choice but to handpick the grapes because the rows are too small to machine harvest. Again, this is another region that requires you to pay so that you can taste. I find some of the tasting price absurd. Though I can understand the need to recoup costs if you are a small producer, I think that there is also a need to identify people who are interested in promoting your product since they are from the industry. I just realised that many producers may know how to make good wine, but they certainly don't know how to generate goodwill among people who could potentially help them to push up their prices. It only goes to show that making wine and running a business are two different skills.
The lyre-trained system of growing grapes. This is the first region I have seen using such a system.
We are seeing berry set here
The Mornington harvest is in March and April. The biggest wineries in the region are Yabby Lake, T'Gallant which is owed by Fosters and Kooyong. The industry is only about 30 years old with Main Ridge being the oldest - 35. A fascinating sight to come across is the Lyre trained vines at Lindenderry vineyard. This is the first time I have seen Lyre trained in Australia. Before I could study the vines some more, something unexpected happened. All I can say is that people from Victoria are different from those from NSW. Both are Australians but both are a different species. So far, I like people from NSW and Canberra. I used to think people from Victoria are friendlier and I suppose it is too early to tell since I only been here for a day. The funny thing I am getting from Victorians is that they seem to be quite suspicious of people. I'm going to remain open to my perception of them after the end of my trip.
Really funny thing I notice about the Shiraz grown in Geelong and Mornington is how different they are from NSW and Canberra. They have this cool climate aromas of something musty, and farmy that I cannot lift a finger to but I find them in Shiraz from Goulburn as well.
Stonier
Now if you really want to try an excellent wine, you have to go to Stonier. I mean it! The quality that these guys are producing is outstanding. Even their entry-level wines have very high standards. They were the standouts of today because of a few reasons. The wines were very complex in terms of the balance and perfumy aromas that both their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were able to achieve. It is rich but not overpowering. It had a softness to it that wasn't girly but was more like the expression of a confident woman. Morever, both had very good line of acid and long length in the backpalate. Although their reserve wines are somewhat pricey, I do think they are a good buy if you are getting it in Austrlaia. Their top of the tier range which I do feel was excellent doesn't have the same bang for buck as their reserve range. However, it is normal in a wine that the quality over price gradient decreases.
I also recommend that you head over to Merricks General Wine store next door and taste their wines. They represent Elgee Park Estate which makes a different style of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; a somewhat more rustic style.
Picture will come once my internet is fully running again.
Additional Notes on 13/12/10:
I also want to add that I visited the Eldridge Estate which charges $4 a tasting. It is a James Halliday Five Star vineyard, which I couldn't agree any less (I didn't know it was until I checked it today). They make excellent Pinot Noirs and Chardonnay. about 5-6 clones go into each wine and is carefully blended.
I also took a bottle of Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir with me for dinner and along with the Beef Wellington, it completed my day. The Pinot Noir was hand picked and fermented in small open 2-3 tonne fermenters with hand plunging. 5% of the final blend was whole bunch fermented and extended marceration lasted for 20 days. After that, ferments were transferred to 35% new French oak barriques for MLF and maturation for 9 months. Barrels were selected and transferred to older barrels for further maturation for 5 months. It has been in the bottle since July 2009.
In terms of colour, it was almost transparent ruby red. The nose was full of complex aromas that you could get from MLF and oak integration, generating spices of cloves and cinnamon. Moreover, the underlying fruit was there, dark cherries and light raspberries but not so apparent in such a way as a common Pinot. There were combinations of rose water, lifted flower aromas and lots of complexity in there. I cannot stress how complex it was. It was like watching a stage play with good actors and a good plot. Aromas later developed into a slight black pepper. About 3 hours since it opened and it was still going. On the palate was firm and rounded tannins coupled with good acid structure and fruit cake sweetness. Not the sweetness from sugar but from fruit. It had lovely weight in it. The length was more than 3 minutes in there and could go on forever. A pinot to die for! and did I mention that it retails for AUD50?
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